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Routes in Unaweep Canyon
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Bull Draw WI2-3 |
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Fish Creek WI4 |
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U.L.S. WI3-4 |
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Fall Creek WI3 |
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Bean Gulch WI3 |
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Spooky Tooth WI4+ |
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Snyder Cleft WI3-4 |
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Snyder Falls WI3 |
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Quarry Pillar WI6 |
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Sport Pillar S,TR WI4+ |
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| Type: | Ice, 120 ft (36 m), Grade II |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 2,690 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Douglas Lossner on Feb 2, 2010 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: There was lots of private land.
Details
Per Randall Chapman: the private property that was near by was acquired by the BLM, and there isn't any private property for a few miles in either direction.
Description
This is a beautiful pitch of ice located in a unique setting (arched, cutout granite) with a good feel to it. Because of the bomber anchor system for belay/rappel at the 100 foot mark, this is a great place to take beginner ice climbers (with good hiking skills). It is also a good place for beginner lead climbers to hone their skills. The entire pitch of Sanders goes above the main anchors, so a short rappel off trees is required to get to the main anchors. I hit a home run taking my girlfriend here for the day. She absolutely loved it. Usually this climb is big, fat, blob, WI3. Because of the unusual amount of snow this year, there is a thick layer of rime that is needing knocked away. Still, very good bomber axes. The approach was very deep snow this day, and snowshoes were a blessing to the rock slabs. Be ready for a strenuous hike.
Location
This route is located on the west side of CO 141, 15.3 miles south towards Gateway from where you get onto CO 141 in Whitewater. It is easy to miss this climb, it is only in view for a brief moment as you drive by. Please be as discreet as possible at this point (won't be easy). This is all private land but does not have "no trespassing" signs. I would try and carpool so as not to have more than one car parked at the access. You can park at the Sunday Wall Parking area (16.4), stage there then take one car back to where you will start the hike. Access has not been an issue to my knowledge at this time. Please be very respectful, we do not want the signs coming out.
Protection
Screws, V-threads, great, two bolt anchor system at the 100 foot level.
Per mike d: there is a new bolted anchor at the top ("and a shiny new 2-bolt anchor atop the route at 120 feet,").The anchor at 100' mentioned in the original description either was removed or gets buried, but it also wouldn't allow you to go to the top of the route.
Per mike d: there is a new bolted anchor at the top ("and a shiny new 2-bolt anchor atop the route at 120 feet,").The anchor at 100' mentioned in the original description either was removed or gets buried, but it also wouldn't allow you to go to the top of the route.
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