Type: |
Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches
Fixed Hardware
(11) |
FA: | Bret Ruckman, Bill Gibson, and Marco Cornacchione, '88-'89 |
Page Views: | 2,107 total · 12/month |
Shared By: | Joseph Crotty on Jan 18, 2010 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Access Issue: No longer closed and no permit is required
Details
Per Tony B: Diamond Head and the other Southern OSMP crags (Split Block, Diamond Head, The Veil, are NOT closed these days as specified on the map here: maps.bouldercolorado.gov/wi….
Likewise, they no longer require an HCA permit either.
Likewise, they no longer require an HCA permit either.
Description
This climb starts from almost dead center of the western aspect of Diamond Head.
P1 - Locate a nearly vertical wall that tilts into a slab at about 40' with two bolts in the first 30'. There is a short left facing corner about 15' up at the first bolt(11a). Two more bolts appear where the wall steepens at a 'V'. Grapple with this power crux (.12a) and merge into a corner that can be taken directly up to the anchor or if easier ground is desired trend left then back right to the anchor, bolt and pin, next to a large tree.
P2 - Climb the low angle left facing corner directly overhead (.10a) and then clip a bolt out right. Start moving up and right aiming for another bolt and eventually at the end of the spicy 35' traverse a fixed pin at the base of the incredible head wall seam. Put on your tricky pro A-game cap and get ready to do some intricate crack/face combination climbing. No one move feels desperate but slowly and surely the burn builds as eventually you must confront the age old question, "to send must there be less pro?" Locate the obvious summit anchor - bolt and pin.
P1 - Locate a nearly vertical wall that tilts into a slab at about 40' with two bolts in the first 30'. There is a short left facing corner about 15' up at the first bolt(11a). Two more bolts appear where the wall steepens at a 'V'. Grapple with this power crux (.12a) and merge into a corner that can be taken directly up to the anchor or if easier ground is desired trend left then back right to the anchor, bolt and pin, next to a large tree.
P2 - Climb the low angle left facing corner directly overhead (.10a) and then clip a bolt out right. Start moving up and right aiming for another bolt and eventually at the end of the spicy 35' traverse a fixed pin at the base of the incredible head wall seam. Put on your tricky pro A-game cap and get ready to do some intricate crack/face combination climbing. No one move feels desperate but slowly and surely the burn builds as eventually you must confront the age old question, "to send must there be less pro?" Locate the obvious summit anchor - bolt and pin.
Location
Climb starts from almost dead center of the western aspect of Diamond Head. Locate a nearly vertical wall that tilts into a slab about 40' up with two bolts in the first 30'. From the top of P1 you can do a 90' rap to the ground. From the top of P2, summit Diamond Head, do a 95' rap to the top of P1.
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