Type: Trad, Alpine, 1500 ft (455 m), Grade IV
FA: Paul Ross John Porter ..May 1972
Page Views: 3,612 total · 19/month
Shared By: Paul Ross on Jan 17, 2010 · Updates
Admins: Thierry Berland, Richer Lariviere, Luc-514

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Warning Access Issue: The SEPAQ doesn't allow climbing on mont de l'Equerre during the summer DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Starts at the toe of the buttress.

The first pitch was dangerously loose ,after that the rock improved. Take the easiest line over and around the gigantic steps to the summit.

The final pitch is along a knife edge ridge.

This was the first ascent of this crag, the approach was long walk from a lower dam along the south side of the river.The sides of the river was covered in logs which added to the difficulty underfoot . The first ascent was completed at dark ,a cold bivy on the top and a difficult bush whack back down the left side of the crag back to the river.
Just right of the climb on the first ascent the climbers were impressed by a massive 1000' waterfall. Ross mention to a NH friend Kurt Winkler that if this waterfall freezes it would be the most spectacular ice climb in the Eastern America's. Indeed it is as Winkler and friend traveled up the next winter and climbed the now very famous ice climb The Pomme D'Or.

Location Suggest change

Mont de L'Equerre is on the left (south) side of the valley .

Protection Suggest change

Normal rack.

Photos

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