The Arete (Mid-Cliff Start)
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3.5 from 12 votes
Type: | Trad, 165 ft (50 m) |
FA: | Ed Webster, Paul Ross Sept 3, 1978 |
Page Views: | 3,885 total · 21/month |
Shared By: | Paul Ross on Jan 6, 2010 · Updates |
Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Description
A very committing lead up the spectacular knife edge just to the left of Black Crack and Upper Refuse. Due to the run outs on this climb it is not popular with modern climbers and is rarely led.It was the hardest lead on the Barber wall in the 1970's however it was by Ed Webster.
P1)Stay on the edge of the arete, laybacking some flakes, then a hard move to a small overhang. Follow thin cracks to a bolt and stance. Face climb straight up (5.11b R) to a ledge. Then follow incipient cracks (5.9R) to the top. 165' 5.11b R.
P1)Stay on the edge of the arete, laybacking some flakes, then a hard move to a small overhang. Follow thin cracks to a bolt and stance. Face climb straight up (5.11b R) to a ledge. Then follow incipient cracks (5.9R) to the top. 165' 5.11b R.
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