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Rio's Problem

V7-8, Boulder, 15 ft (5 m),  Avg: 3.1 from 55 votes
FA: Rio
New Hampshire > Pawtuckaway > Boulder Natural > Split Boulder
Warning Access Issue: Parking Issues: Starting 10/24/20 a reservation will be required to park at Reservation Rd. on all days and for the Backside on the weekends. See DetailsDrop down

Description

Start with a good undercling for your left hand and a big slopey gaston a little lower with your right hand. Make a move with your right hand to a sharp sidepull/crimp strait above you. Next come up to another slopey sidepull/pinch with your left. Work your feet up and make a move to an edge, match, then on to easier finishing moves.

Location

A little farther to the left of Confident Man right over the stream.

Protection

Pad

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Christoph Riedl finishing up 'Rio's Problem' (v8).
[Hide Photo] Christoph Riedl finishing up 'Rio's Problem' (v8).
Figured I'd get a shot out here that showcases the full line a little better. Nick for scale. This climb is burly, technical, and deserving of all your love!
[Hide Photo] Figured I'd get a shot out here that showcases the full line a little better. Nick for scale. This climb is burly, technical, and deserving of all your love!
Christoph Riedl on the opening move of 'Rio's Problem' (v8).
[Hide Photo] Christoph Riedl on the opening move of 'Rio's Problem' (v8).
Christoph Riedl on 'Rio's Problem' (v8).
[Hide Photo] Christoph Riedl on 'Rio's Problem' (v8).
Rio's Problem. More people should climb this line.
[Hide Photo] Rio's Problem. More people should climb this line.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

andyscott
Massachusetts
  V7
[Hide Comment] Does anyone have anymore info about this problem? I graded it at v6 just because that is what it is graded on the Boulder Natural map but it feels wayyyy harder than RTL or even Maxim. Apr 24, 2010
BDalhaus
New Gloucester, ME
  V7
[Hide Comment] I updated the map to show V7, so you can change the grade if you want. When I was showed the problem, they told me "at least V6" but they weren't sure. Way harder than RTL but easier than any V8. I might have had different beta though. There are two good feet out left and a higher left sidepull after the first. There were no big moves and my feet never cut. Nov 1, 2010
Eric Heiden
Derry, NH
[Hide Comment] Rio's Problem @ 1:00:
vimeo.com/33263058 Dec 7, 2011
Lee Hansche
Allenstown, NH... and a van…
[Hide Comment] great video! love your editing style! Dec 7, 2011
M Sprague
New England
[Hide Comment] Yeah, well done. Thanks. Dec 7, 2011
Lanky
Tired
[Hide Comment] I've long been curious: how the hell do you get down from this boulder? Dec 8, 2011
BDalhaus
New Gloucester, ME
  V7
[Hide Comment] Most people downclimb the offwidth/chimney between Halcyon/My Little Pony and Anorexorcist. I think it takes longer to get down by far. Dec 8, 2011
Eric Heiden
Derry, NH
[Hide Comment] Thanks Lee & Mark.

My friend in the video just downclimbed a move or two and jumped onto the pads with me spotting. Dec 12, 2011
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
  V8
[Hide Comment] This climb is really good. It's got engaging and technical movement on high quality rock, some unique holds and just the right amount of height.

With a bit more traffic, some of the sharpness would be reduced and the top would stay a bit more moss and pine needle free. In my opinion, definitely v8, and one of the better climbs at that grade in Pawtuckaway. Jun 28, 2012
Dante Jelinek
Exeter, NH
  V7
[Hide Comment] Its easier barefoot Jul 7, 2022
Jedidiah Piotte
Madbury NH
V8
[Hide Comment] This has been in my training circuits for a few years and still harder then some of the other 8s in the park IMO
Last weekend was probably my 10thish time doing it and it just doesn’t get easier. Dec 6, 2022