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The Guillotine

5.10a/b, Sport, 90 ft (27 m),  Avg: 3.4 from 234 votes
FA: Louie Anderson (1997)
California > Los Angeles Basin > Santa Monica Mo… > Echo Cliffs > Alcove

Description

Starts up the face on edges, below the left facing corner, clipping the bolts on the left wall. Once you reach the flake follow it up and left to Geezer's anchors.

Location

The right most route on the wall. Climb the left facing corner below the right side of the wide flake.

Protection

8 bolts to shared 2 open shuts.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

One of my favorites at Echo
[Hide Photo] One of my favorites at Echo
Climbed around this fella chilling in the crack. Definitely added a new spice factor
[Hide Photo] Climbed around this fella chilling in the crack. Definitely added a new spice factor
Here is Brooke looking for the footholds.
[Hide Photo] Here is Brooke looking for the footholds.
Ben on the Guillotine
[Hide Photo] Ben on the Guillotine
Ryan B ....solid on the flake
[Hide Photo] Ryan B ....solid on the flake
Leading Guillotine.
[Hide Photo] Leading Guillotine.
The Guillotine, a long time ago.
[Hide Photo] The Guillotine, a long time ago.
Matt B cleans up the flake and goes north to the anchors
[Hide Photo] Matt B cleans up the flake and goes north to the anchors
Leading Guillotine
[Hide Photo] Leading Guillotine
On the flake.
[Hide Photo] On the flake.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Bidimpata-Kerim Aramyan-Tshimanga
Los Angeles, CA
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] Super fun route, though 10b feels like a little much. Once you get up the guillotine itself, it is one MASSIVE undercling most of the way up. Feet might be a little delicate but I think this route is more like 9+ or 10a. Again though, suuuuper fun route. Mar 25, 2013
Jamie Umbras
Moab Utah
 
[Hide Comment] Great route, area classic for sure. 10a/b seems like a fair grade. Not to be missed. Feb 24, 2014
Wei-Li Sun
Los Angeles, CA
[Hide Comment] The anchors on this route are worn, one has rope wear almost half way through and the other, maybe about one-third of the way through. Sep 7, 2015
Jack C. Beckley
arcadia ca
[Hide Comment] Great climb! the underclinging is really fun! pretty slippery with all the chalk from the mass amounts of traffic...it actually leaved a stain on the wall...
the right anchor was worn about half way through and the left was good Apr 5, 2016
James Tolins
Los Angeles, CA
 
[Hide Comment] New Anchors up as of yesterday (two 1/2" x 4" expansion bolts with steel beaners) . Also, just right of the fifth bolt there is a large block in the flake (about 1'x3') that has a fracture and looks like it may go soon. As an added bonus it's directly above where the belayer stands and there is really no good way for the belayer to get out of the way.

If someone was feeling inspired they could probably crowbar it off. Depending on how much comes off it may even be a good idea to move the fifth bolt afterward. Feb 24, 2017
Lena C
Boise, ID
[Hide Comment] Thank you so much for the anchor replacement!!
It was definitely a need. Much appreciated. Apr 7, 2017
Stephen L
Atl GA
[Hide Comment] Gorgeous new anchors on a fun lil' climb.

Big love for the mussy hooks and party responsible for placing them. This Bud's for you. May 11, 2017
Marin Staykov
 
[Hide Comment] Mussy hooks are worn, quite a bit of rope drag through both. May 29, 2023