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> Siuranella Este
L'Escamarla
5.13a YDS 7c+ French 29 Ewbanks IX+ UIAA 29 ZA E6 6c British
Avg: 3.9 from 17
votes
Routes in Siuranella Este
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Avance Cangrejo S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Border line S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Brigadistak S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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D'estranquis S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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El Ploramiques S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Gravetat Marciana S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Hastala Fixe de la Polla S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Junta Culata S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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L'Escamarla S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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La Discórdia S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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La Fiesta del Mondongo S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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La Marca del Sorru S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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La Negra Tiene Tumbao S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Lo Deje to Blanco S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Lo més negre S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Mucho Guachinche S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Mucho Papito S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Pocapena S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Teoria Punset S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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| Type: | Sport, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 4,522 total · 25/month |
| Shared By: | Monomaniac on Dec 9, 2009 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, David Riley |
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Description
La Siuranella's most popular hard route, and one of the best 13a's at Siurana, L'Escamarla is a classic overhanging jug haul, except for a few brief cruxy sections on brutally rounded edges and challenging feet. All of the lines on this beautiful orange-streaked bulge are extremely photogenic, so tow along a photog to position on the second tier.
Stick clip the first bolt, then cruise the surprisingly insecure slab to a no-hands stance below the bulge. Big moves between good holds lead up the bulge. Move out right into light gray rock, and follow thin pockets to a good stance. A cruxy, huge reach leads up to more pockets, then the black arete feature out right. Slap up the arete, then make a desparate crux traverse back left on poor crimps & pitiful feet to an awkward pocket. Work up large rounded edges in the orange streak, through a scoop, to gradually improving holds. Get a great rest on the prow, then follow the leaning, pumpy arete to the anchor.
Stick clip the first bolt, then cruise the surprisingly insecure slab to a no-hands stance below the bulge. Big moves between good holds lead up the bulge. Move out right into light gray rock, and follow thin pockets to a good stance. A cruxy, huge reach leads up to more pockets, then the black arete feature out right. Slap up the arete, then make a desparate crux traverse back left on poor crimps & pitiful feet to an awkward pocket. Work up large rounded edges in the orange streak, through a scoop, to gradually improving holds. Get a great rest on the prow, then follow the leaning, pumpy arete to the anchor.
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