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Knight's Gambit Variation
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British R
Avg: 3 from 1
vote
Routes in The Bookend
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Blood Feud T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Bombay Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Climb of the Ancient Mariner T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Corinthian Column T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Great Dihedral, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Grovelly Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Handbook T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hot Licks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Knight's Gambit T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Knight's Gambit Variation T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Labor of Lust T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X |
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Orange Julius T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Pineapple Juice T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Sicilian Defense T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Sorcerer T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sorcerer -- Mariner Traverse T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Sorcerer's Apprentice T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Southern Cross T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Strawberry Short Cake T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Summer Festival T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Sun King T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Tarantula T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Treebeard T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Truth T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Unknown Chasm T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Wide Gauge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C1 |
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Winds of Fortune T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | Smedley, Larsen, and Anderson 1983 |
| Page Views: | 1,052 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Guy H. on Nov 29, 2009 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2024 Partial Seasonal Raptor Closures lifted 7/21/24
Details
From the Denver Post 7/21/24: some of the raptor closures have been lifted, officials announced.
Upper & Lower Twin Owls, Rock One, The Book and access trail, Bookmark, and Left Book were opened based on a park new release.
Closures have been extended for Thunder Buttress, access trail, The Parish, Cathedral Wall.
Closures above the Loch Vale-Sky Pond trail have been extended.
Per Brent Frazier: the raptor closures have been lifted in the Lumpy Ridge and Loch Vale Areas ( nps.gov/romo/raptor-closure…)
Each year, Rocky Mountain National Park initiates temporary closures in certain areas of the park to ensure that birds of prey will be undisturbed during their breeding and nesting seasons. These closures begin on February 15 and continue through July 31, if appropriate. Monitoring by park staff and volunteers have determined that all remaining closures can be lifted on July 28, 2023.
Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Upper & Lower Twin Owls, Rock One, The Book and access trail, Bookmark, and Left Book were opened based on a park new release.
Closures have been extended for Thunder Buttress, access trail, The Parish, Cathedral Wall.
Closures above the Loch Vale-Sky Pond trail have been extended.
Per Brent Frazier: the raptor closures have been lifted in the Lumpy Ridge and Loch Vale Areas ( nps.gov/romo/raptor-closure…)
Each year, Rocky Mountain National Park initiates temporary closures in certain areas of the park to ensure that birds of prey will be undisturbed during their breeding and nesting seasons. These closures begin on February 15 and continue through July 31, if appropriate. Monitoring by park staff and volunteers have determined that all remaining closures can be lifted on July 28, 2023.
Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Description
This variation to Knight's Gambit is a great one pitch route with a good mix of different sytles of climbing. It should be adding to your one pitch cragging list for the area.
Follow a short, right-facing dihedral and then angle right to a short chimney with a hand crack. Follow the thin hands crack to the obvious traverse left at an old bolt. A 3 foot sling on your last piece in the crack is recommended. A 5.9+ face traverse past an old bolt (smallest TCU) leads to a fun, Lumpy-style, hand crack. This will deposit you below the final crux slab moves. They are protected by a 25 year old 1/4 incher, which is below you as you pull the crux. If this fails (R rating), a nice sloping ledge awaits your ankles. This is probably not a good route to push your limits on.
A modern 2 bolt anchor will put you on the ground (100 feet).
Follow a short, right-facing dihedral and then angle right to a short chimney with a hand crack. Follow the thin hands crack to the obvious traverse left at an old bolt. A 3 foot sling on your last piece in the crack is recommended. A 5.9+ face traverse past an old bolt (smallest TCU) leads to a fun, Lumpy-style, hand crack. This will deposit you below the final crux slab moves. They are protected by a 25 year old 1/4 incher, which is below you as you pull the crux. If this fails (R rating), a nice sloping ledge awaits your ankles. This is probably not a good route to push your limits on.
A modern 2 bolt anchor will put you on the ground (100 feet).
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