PRINT: Rock Climb Loggerhead Ledge Route, Yosemite National Park

Loggerhead Ledge Route

5.7, Trad, 240 ft (73 m), 3 pitches, Grade II,

Avg: 1.9 from 11 votes
FA: unknown
California > Yosemite NP > Yosemite Valley > Valley N Side > C. El Cap Picni… > 2. Loggerhead Buttress

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Description

This climb can be done in two pitches but three is recommended.

Pitch 1) Climb a groove 5.6 with good pro 50ft. to a tree on a ledge.

Pitch 2) Jam cracks, finger locks, and chicken wings 5.7 take you 110ft to a large ledge with a tree directly below a dark chimney.

Pitch 3) Proceed into chimney and grovel your way up until a chockstone blocks your progress. Stem out of the chimney and pull yourself over the chockstone 5.4. Gain the Loggerhead Ledge. 80ft.

This is one of the better ledges in the Valley. Hang out, eat lunch, and make two raps with one 70m rope: From the chains on the east edge of the ledge rap once to the top of Simian Sex, then make one more 35m rap. With one 70m rope, you will need to downclimb easy rock for about 5ft. to reach the ground.

Location

This route is located about 1/3 of the way up from the toe of the buttress, and is identified by the groove that marks the first pitch.

Protection

Carry gear to 4.5 in. and include plenty of long runners.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Nice view from loggerhead ledge

A look up the loggerhead ledge route .

Rappin the top pitch

A fun chimney climb, do it!

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Osprey Overhang
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5.7

I think this climb will see a bit of a revival over the next decade. The ledge is really worth the climb, and good obscurities are becoming trendy again. The unattractive look of pitch one could turn some parties around, but this should be on everyone's to do list. Avoid the Manure Pile crowds and give this old moderate a try, you'll be glad you did. Feb 10, 2011

vincent L.
Redwood City

An old school feel with some awkward wide sections and chimneying . A beautiful ledge up higher with excellent views . Well worth doing , and not too hard . Nov 5, 2011

Rob Dillon
Tamarisk Clearing

Nice in the warm season too. Dec 16, 2011

Lana dude

Chimney practice with a cool summit and no crowds. Pitch 2 begins with a dirty section and ends with a steep chimney, awkward enough that I wouldn't suggest to brand new 5.7 leader. Jul 2, 2013

Tomko
SANTA CLARA CA

Definitely tricky for a 5.7 leader; a fall almost anywhere would have consequences. Apr 28, 2019

Senor Lago
Santa Clara, CA

If and when this route cleans up it might turn into an old-school 2-star route. It's mostly chimney climbing of some sort or another, covered in dirt and leaves, and I agree with Tomko that the gear is sparse enough that you really don't want to fall. Be really solid and secure on 5.7 chimney otherwise this would be a frightening and potentially hazardous lead.

As of yesterday (Sept 2019) the tree at the top of pitch 2 is dead dead dead. It is no more. It is an ex-tree. As in, dead for years and hollow sounding. This is the only pro there outside of a few small blocks (each of which I am pretty sure I could pick up) and a sapling about 1" in diameter. I don't know how the previous commenters haven't mentioned this already- one of the scarier belays I've had to deal with. Ain't no way I would head back up there again without a bolt kit to make that belay/rap safe, but given the low aesthetics of the route, I don't think I'll be heading back up there ever again. Sep 23, 2019