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> Yosemite NP
> Yosemite Valley
> Valley N Side
> C. El Cap Picni…
> 2. Loggerhead Buttress
Loggerhead Ledge Route
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 1.9 from 11
votes
Routes in 2. Loggerhead Buttress
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[Redacted] S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Agricultural Manuvers in the Dark T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Chow Chow Chow T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Conquest of the Stud Monkey T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Drunk Tank T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Edge-u-cator T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Goodhead S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Hammerhead T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Happy's Favorite T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Here on the Inside T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Lagerhead T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Le Nocturne T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Log Jam T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Loggerhead Ledge Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Material Girl S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Orange Juice Avenue T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Simian Sex T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Sink Like A Stone S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Sober Up T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Sorry Poopsie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sow Sow Sow T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Stay Lady Stay Back T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Swillar Pillar T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 240 ft (73 m), 3 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 3,627 total · 19/month |
| Shared By: | Osprey Overhang on Nov 27, 2009 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
This climb can be done in two pitches but three is recommended.
Pitch 1) Climb a groove 5.6 with good pro 50ft. to a tree on a ledge.
Pitch 2) Jam cracks, finger locks, and chicken wings 5.7 take you 110ft to a large ledge with a tree directly below a dark chimney.
Pitch 3) Proceed into chimney and grovel your way up until a chockstone blocks your progress. Stem out of the chimney and pull yourself over the chockstone 5.4. Gain the Loggerhead Ledge. 80ft.
This is one of the better ledges in the Valley. Hang out, eat lunch, and make two raps with one 70m rope: From the chains on the east edge of the ledge rap once to the top of Simian Sex, then make one more 35m rap. With one 70m rope, you will need to downclimb easy rock for about 5ft. to reach the ground.
Pitch 1) Climb a groove 5.6 with good pro 50ft. to a tree on a ledge.
Pitch 2) Jam cracks, finger locks, and chicken wings 5.7 take you 110ft to a large ledge with a tree directly below a dark chimney.
Pitch 3) Proceed into chimney and grovel your way up until a chockstone blocks your progress. Stem out of the chimney and pull yourself over the chockstone 5.4. Gain the Loggerhead Ledge. 80ft.
This is one of the better ledges in the Valley. Hang out, eat lunch, and make two raps with one 70m rope: From the chains on the east edge of the ledge rap once to the top of Simian Sex, then make one more 35m rap. With one 70m rope, you will need to downclimb easy rock for about 5ft. to reach the ground.
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