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Moby Dike
5.10+ R,
Trad, 1200 ft (364 m), 10 pitches, Grade IV,
Avg: 2.3 from 4
votes
FA: Pat Goodman, John (Verm) Sherman
New Mexico
> New Mexico Nava…
> Ship Rock Area
> Ship Rock
Access Issue: Ship Rock is located on the Navajo Nation
Details
Climbing is ILLEGAL on the Navajo Nation including Ship Rock. According to the most recently published guide on Ship Rock ("Desert Rock", and "50 Classics.."), Ship Rock was placed off limits to climbing in 1967, but the ban was not enforced until 1970, following an accident.
It is probably legal to drive to the base. It is reportedly illegal to camp there. However widespread litter suggests that this is a popular "party spot" (which may be deterrent in of itself). It is illegal to collect or remove rocks on the Navajo Nation, without a permit.
This area is included on MP for historical purposes and to inform would-be suitors that climbing Ship Rock is illegal.
Access Issue: Climbing on the Navajo Nation is ILLEGAL.
Details
This area is included on MP for historical purposes and to inform would-be suitors that climbing here is illegal.
Description
The "Moby Dike" is the first (and only as of 2009) all free route that climbs to the main summit of Shiprock. It was climbed ground-up and onsite.
The meat of the climbing is pitches 5-6 they are protected with a mix of gear and bolts on good rock - for Shiprock that is.
Location
Start on the west face in Longs Col. When the gully ends in the big bowl below the N. and Main summits, the "Dike" will be obvious! It's the big vein of black basalt heading up the west face to the saddle between the two summits.
Follow the dike up and left to the saddle, eventually landing you on the east face after 3 pitches of climbing.
Traverse left (to the south)then up good cracks on the N.E. face of the Main summit.
Protection
Double ropes, set of nuts, cams to 2" loads of long slings...
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USA
But I gotta agree about the aid rating on the Standard Rt. Although, at the time of my ascent I never really considerd it an aid climb.
Nice job on a proud FFA fellas! Nov 26, 2009
Mr. Marc (AMGA guide)please tell me you are not the Marc who has been guiding folks illegally up that peak. It is a small community around here, word travels fast. Have you ever talked to the families around the peak for permission to climb, I know Pat has... Dec 19, 2009
Fayetteville, WV