Type: Trad, Ice, Snow, Alpine
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,910 total · 10/month
Shared By: Chris Simmons-Solomon on Nov 19, 2009
Admins: Chris Owen, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Description Suggest change

The North Couloir is very visible on maps. Steep snow and AI2+, or a great ski descent in winter and early spring.

Location Suggest change

In the past, this route is accessed via Upper Lamarck Lake and Wishbone Lake. Camp at Upper Lamarck Lake if you take this route.
However, in November 2009 we scouted a possible scree-chute descent from Lamarck Col, which looked reasonable to descend to the glacier from the saddle/notch to the immediate right of the SE Slopes. This would enable a team to camp at Lamarck Col, drop into the route, climb, and then descend the SE Slopes right into camp (30-45 minutes from the summit to the Col tarn).

The North Couloir is painfully obvious to anyone with 20/20 vision.

Descent: Descend the SE Slopes, then follow the use trail/X-country back to camp at Upper Lamarck Lake

Protection Suggest change

Bring a lite mixed rack - 4-6 screws, a "1/2" rack of medium stoppers (#4,6,8,10, & 12), and 3 cams. I also recommend screamers for lead screws, 5 long slings, 2 double-length slings, and one cordellette

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