Rising Crescendo or Serpentine Crack
5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British R
Avg: 3.6 from 10 votes
Type: | Trad, 3 pitches |
FA: | Olaf Mitchell & Ken Trout (submitted as Rob Wolfe?) or Rob and Oliver Hill ,1985 or early 1986 |
Page Views: | 3,590 total · 20/month |
Shared By: | stevecurtis on Nov 17, 2009 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure
Details
2023 info: jeffco.us/1531/Alerts-Closures
The Cathedral Spires area, including Block Tower, Cynical Pinnacle, Snake Buttress, the Dome, Hall of Mirrors, Sunshine Wall, and Poe Buttress, are closed annually starting March 1 for raptor nesting. After careful monitoring of nest sites, Jefferson County Open Space opens certain areas of Cathedral Spires and maintain spot closures for active nests through July 31st. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates: jeffco.us/open-space/parks/…
Note, JeffCo Open Space has notified us that access to The Bishop and Poop Point (along with all the Cathedral Spires Area) currently goes across JeffCo OS land. Despite information in some guidebooks (published or soon-to-be-published), the entire Cathedral Spires area is subject raptor nesting closures. Please be aware of the hefty fines associated with failure to observe these regulations.
The Cathedral Spires area, including Block Tower, Cynical Pinnacle, Snake Buttress, the Dome, Hall of Mirrors, Sunshine Wall, and Poe Buttress, are closed annually starting March 1 for raptor nesting. After careful monitoring of nest sites, Jefferson County Open Space opens certain areas of Cathedral Spires and maintain spot closures for active nests through July 31st. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates: jeffco.us/open-space/parks/…
Note, JeffCo Open Space has notified us that access to The Bishop and Poop Point (along with all the Cathedral Spires Area) currently goes across JeffCo OS land. Despite information in some guidebooks (published or soon-to-be-published), the entire Cathedral Spires area is subject raptor nesting closures. Please be aware of the hefty fines associated with failure to observe these regulations.
Description
This excellent route starts with the Center Route. Head directly right from the center route start, on a weakness/dike, 5.9 R. About 25 feet right there is a crack that arches back left. The first part is the crux--difficult gear and run out 11b PG-13. The crack arches left and crosses back over the Center Route. This is the first belay. From this belay, head straight up the thin crack and then up and left to the Fender dihedral. 11+ PG-13.
Per Kevin Stricker: the route starts in the Turf Spreader chimney then traverses out below the TS roof for a spicy pitch to link into the start you describe. This second pitch if taken all the way to the 1st belay of Center Route is full value and challenging as you cannot see your belayer for over 150 feet of climbing and you are traversing above sometimes marginal protection (11b R). You can easily break it up into two pitches with the first part being the scariest, and belay before the hand crack that leads to the Center Route P1 anchor.
Per Kevin Stricker: the route starts in the Turf Spreader chimney then traverses out below the TS roof for a spicy pitch to link into the start you describe. This second pitch if taken all the way to the 1st belay of Center Route is full value and challenging as you cannot see your belayer for over 150 feet of climbing and you are traversing above sometimes marginal protection (11b R). You can easily break it up into two pitches with the first part being the scariest, and belay before the hand crack that leads to the Center Route P1 anchor.
Location
The start is in the same location as Center Route. There are usually sling anchors in the Fender dihedral for rapping, or continue up the Fender crux---full of shit and then Wunsch's Dihedral.
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