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New Year's Crack

5.10b, Trad,  Avg: 2.6 from 16 votes
FA: unknown
Hawaii > Oahu > Mokule'ia Wall
Warning Access Issue: Electronic Waver DetailsDrop down

Description

This is the massive crack climb in between Nurse’s Hook and Cactus Garden. You may want to tape up your hands before you climb it to save your skin. This route is almost completely comprised of a flared crack. Because of this you must place cams far back into the crack and thus you will need many 24" runners. If you wish to top rope this route you must rappel down from Doctor Hook’s anchors to the titanium bolts above the route.

Protection

Trad. Single rack to #2 Camalot. A few extra pieces in the #.75 - #2 range are useful if you really want to sew it up.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Ben Fox
Colorado
 
[Hide Comment] Good route. Climbed it today. It'll take a BD#3 which makes you feel more secure, recommend 2x#.75s...I didn't touch my #.5, and I laced this thing up. A few good rests if you take advantage of them, and a solid knee bar rest just before the final overhang. If you're in doubt, just blast the top: the overhang is solid holds. Cracks are all about hand size and I always prefer BD #2/#3. I hate #1/.75s as it's my "off" size. This climb felt good for me, maybe easier than 5.10b. But never trust crack boyz and girlz. Mar 25, 2019