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New Year's Crack
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 2.7 from 17
votes
Routes in Mokule'ia Wall
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A Sicker Red Slick S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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All It's Cracked Up to Be S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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All Pigs are Created Equal S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Ambulance Driver T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Ants In Your Pants Dance S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Beat the Burn S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Black Tower S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Blankety Blank S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Bug Walk S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Bug Zapper S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Burnt Offerings S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Cactus Arete TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cactus Garden S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Captain Hook T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Chunky Monkey T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Confusion S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Copper Dragon S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Devil's Triangle S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Double Dragon S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13 |
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Dr. Hook S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Dragon Cock-6 S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Dragon Slayer S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Dragon's Breath S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Dragon's Fire S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Dragon's Spine S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Easy Rider S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Einstein's Bike S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 |
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Eureka T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Face Over Crack T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Face The Music S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Fission S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Flower Tower S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Flower Tower (Variation) TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Funky Monkey T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Fusion S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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God Machine, The TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Guillotine T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Hokey Pokey, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Immortal's Path S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Insecticide S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Mid-Level Provider Hook TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Mission Nearly Impossible S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Mission Tortilla Chips S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Mongoose vs Mountain Chicken S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Mothership Connection S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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New Year's Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Nurse Hook S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Pig Tree S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Rainy Wish S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Red Tower of Pain TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Rocky Road T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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S-Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Shark Fin, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Silver Dragon S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Sissy Blaster S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Slice of Death S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Smokestack T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Spice of Life S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Submarine Driver TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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They Will Eat Cake T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Torpedoed Youth S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Trinity S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Unnamed Open Project TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Up for the Downsroke S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Vegetable Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Wavy Gravy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Weenie Roast S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Trad |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 2,205 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | 20 kN on Nov 14, 2009 |
| Admins: | 20 kN |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Electronic Waver
Details
As of January 25, 2015, the Moke has been reopened after a lengthy challenge in obtaining a permit to climb at this area . All climbers are required to sign an electronic waver before climbing at the Moke. You can find the waver here:
hiclimb.org/join.php
Access at this area is fragile. The State requires that climbers exercise good stewardship in order for our access to remain.
Please note the following rules:
- Dogs and alcoholic beverages are prohibited by law at the Moke, on the approach, and in the parking lot.
- No fires
- Do not deface the cliff
- No amplified music
In addition, please show the state we are good stewards of the land by following the following guidelines:
- Treat other users with respect
- Help clean up chalk and tick marks
- Identify and report safety hazards
- Stay on established trails
- Dispose of human waste appropriately and pack out toilet paper
- Keep a low profile by minimizing noise
- Pack out all gear, rubbish, and practice leave no trace ethics
hiclimb.org/join.php
Access at this area is fragile. The State requires that climbers exercise good stewardship in order for our access to remain.
Please note the following rules:
- Dogs and alcoholic beverages are prohibited by law at the Moke, on the approach, and in the parking lot.
- No fires
- Do not deface the cliff
- No amplified music
In addition, please show the state we are good stewards of the land by following the following guidelines:
- Treat other users with respect
- Help clean up chalk and tick marks
- Identify and report safety hazards
- Stay on established trails
- Dispose of human waste appropriately and pack out toilet paper
- Keep a low profile by minimizing noise
- Pack out all gear, rubbish, and practice leave no trace ethics
Description
This is the massive crack climb in between Nurses Hook and Cactus Garden. You may want to tape up your hands before you climb it to save your skin. This route is almost completely comprised of a flared crack. Because of this you must place cams far back into the crack and thus you will need many 24" runners. If you wish to top rope this route you must rappel down from Doctor Hooks anchors to the titanium bolts above the route.
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