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Routes in Bumblie Rock
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Beer and Dandelions T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Brass Monkey T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Bumble Pie S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Bumblie Takes a Tumblie S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Christiansen's Corner T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Fifty Feet of Fun S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Flight of the Bumblie T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Miki's Six T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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New York Is Not The City S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Return of the Bumblie S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Too Much Fun S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 75 ft (23 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 2,746 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | GRK on Nov 13, 2009 |
| Admins: | GRK, Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: (1) Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, & all the crags north of Twin Sisters are CLOSED. (2) No trash cans. (3) Highlining temporary ban in place for CIRO and CRSP
Details
(1) The area, crags, and routes just north of the Twin Sisters are on private land and the landowner recently posted no trespassing notices at the gated road/trail to the area. Any access of these areas and routes is trespassing. The area was closed by the landowner due to trespassing, illegal camping, fires & trash, and disregard of owner's privacy.
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here until further notice. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's. Park officials and CRAG are working to regain access to this valuable climbing resource. Be patient and check back for updates.
(2) No trash cans anywhere in City of Rocks: urlzs.com/c4eZH
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here until further notice. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's. Park officials and CRAG are working to regain access to this valuable climbing resource. Be patient and check back for updates.
(2) No trash cans anywhere in City of Rocks: urlzs.com/c4eZH
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Description
One of the better routes at it's grade, Miki's Six busts up a short, smooth slab and joins a long, left leaning hand/fist crack.
Start on the far south side of the buttress next to a tree for the most casual way to gain the crack, or begin directly below the crack on a thinner, more trickier, full-value face. Either way, the crack is the real reason you're there.
Climb a little over fifteen feet to get to the crack, plug a piece and let the fun begin. Follow the slowly widening break up and left towards a huge hanging flake. Using jams and face holds climb the relaxed route up to a troublesome area around the 3/4's mark. Work you way through this and finish wide at the large, crisp, flake.
Start on the far south side of the buttress next to a tree for the most casual way to gain the crack, or begin directly below the crack on a thinner, more trickier, full-value face. Either way, the crack is the real reason you're there.
Climb a little over fifteen feet to get to the crack, plug a piece and let the fun begin. Follow the slowly widening break up and left towards a huge hanging flake. Using jams and face holds climb the relaxed route up to a troublesome area around the 3/4's mark. Work you way through this and finish wide at the large, crisp, flake.
Location
This route sits on the far right, west side face of The Bumblie Wall. Its the most obvious, most significant crack on the wall. Miki's Six is the first route you come too when arriving from the Bath Rock or Flaming Rock parking. It sits two climbs right of Too Much Fun.
Protection
Depeding on your comfort level, the gear wil be highly varied. A single rack from 3/4" to 5" sums up the range in sizing. Bring a single set, bring a double set, add some stoppers and/or hexes.... best to just eye it up from the ground. Stop at a thick set of slings wrapped around a horn.
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