Frugal Chariot
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British PG13
Type: | Sport, 90 ft (27 m) |
FA: | Hugh Loeffler, 1992 |
Page Views: | 2,189 total · 12/month |
Shared By: | Monomaniac on Nov 12, 2009 |
Admins: | Shirtless Mike, DrRockso RRG, Luke Cornejo, Billy Simek |
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Follow existing trails and climb using removable protection or in climbing areas with existing approved fixed anchors or bolts. Development of any new rock climbing, bouldering or rappelling areas and development of any climbing routes involving the permanent installation of new fixed anchors or new trail construction requires prior Forest Service authorization.
Follow existing trails and climb using removable protection or in climbing areas with existing approved fixed anchors or bolts. Development of any new rock climbing, bouldering or rappelling areas and development of any climbing routes involving the permanent installation of new fixed anchors or new trail construction requires prior Forest Service authorization.
Description
Frugal Chariott is a high quality climb with varied movement that would be a 4-star classic at most cliffs. At the Red its just another awesome sport route. An awkward, scary start, some sandy holds, uncharacteristically hard crux, and 'cheater' rest at mid-height detract somewhat from the quality.
Begin by scrambling up the decomposing ramp-boulder. It may be possible to fish in a 3/4" piece here. Mantle the boulder to reach an interesitng iron-extrusion knob. Head up & left on cool pockets and sharp edges. At the top of the vertical section, the brutal crux is reached: one long reach off a sharp thin crimp. Above the first bulge its possible to traverse completely around the corner for an effortless rest. Purists will shake from the large slopers on the bolt line. Continue over two more bulges, with a pumpy sprint between diminishing holds towards the anchor.
This side of the cliff gets a bit of shade in the evening.
Begin by scrambling up the decomposing ramp-boulder. It may be possible to fish in a 3/4" piece here. Mantle the boulder to reach an interesitng iron-extrusion knob. Head up & left on cool pockets and sharp edges. At the top of the vertical section, the brutal crux is reached: one long reach off a sharp thin crimp. Above the first bulge its possible to traverse completely around the corner for an effortless rest. Purists will shake from the large slopers on the bolt line. Continue over two more bulges, with a pumpy sprint between diminishing holds towards the anchor.
This side of the cliff gets a bit of shade in the evening.
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