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Appalachian Spring
5.13a YDS 7c+ French 29 Ewbanks IX+ UIAA 29 ZA E6 6c British
Avg: 3.9 from 41
votes
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| Type: | Sport, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Hugh Loeffler, 1995 |
| Page Views: | 7,939 total · 43/month |
| Shared By: | Monomaniac on Nov 12, 2009 |
| Admins: | Shirtless Mike, DrRockso RRG, Luke Cornejo, Billy Simek |
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Access Issue: New route development is prohibited in the Daniel Boone National Forest.
Details
fs.usda.gov/activity/dbnf/r…
Follow existing trails and climb using removable protection or in climbing areas with existing approved fixed anchors or bolts. Development of any new rock climbing, bouldering or rappelling areas and development of any climbing routes involving the permanent installation of new fixed anchors or new trail construction requires prior Forest Service authorization.
Follow existing trails and climb using removable protection or in climbing areas with existing approved fixed anchors or bolts. Development of any new rock climbing, bouldering or rappelling areas and development of any climbing routes involving the permanent installation of new fixed anchors or new trail construction requires prior Forest Service authorization.
Description
Generally regarded as one of the best 5.13s at The Red, Appalachian Spring is not your typical jug haul. The route is known for its big moves, in particular 3 successive lunges, each harder than the last. The rest of the climbing is not all that difficult for the grade, but the unbelievable quality & color of the rock make every move enjoyable.
The name is surely a reference to the lush, seepy nature of this wall. Its likely there will be a few wet holds on the route, but its not nearly as bad as its neighbor to the right.
Begin with easy, unprotected moves up to the big ledge. Probably best to leave the belayer on the ground, and pass the stick clip up to the ledge to pre-clip the first bolt. Climb the vertical, sculpted wall right of the bolt line to a bushy and often damp horizontal break. Move back left, to the top of a shallow right-facing dihedral. At this point "Appalachian Spring" heads left. A difficult gaston move above the third bolt is the only difficulty before reaching a horizontal break. Move left and make the first big move to another break. Make another big move, then move right for the third lunge. Now that you're good & pumped, move left and follow brilliant pockets for another 30 feet to the anchor.
The name is surely a reference to the lush, seepy nature of this wall. Its likely there will be a few wet holds on the route, but its not nearly as bad as its neighbor to the right.
Begin with easy, unprotected moves up to the big ledge. Probably best to leave the belayer on the ground, and pass the stick clip up to the ledge to pre-clip the first bolt. Climb the vertical, sculpted wall right of the bolt line to a bushy and often damp horizontal break. Move back left, to the top of a shallow right-facing dihedral. At this point "Appalachian Spring" heads left. A difficult gaston move above the third bolt is the only difficulty before reaching a horizontal break. Move left and make the first big move to another break. Make another big move, then move right for the third lunge. Now that you're good & pumped, move left and follow brilliant pockets for another 30 feet to the anchor.
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