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Ball Scratcher
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3.2 from 89
votes
Routes in (1) Buckeye Buttress
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One-Eyed Willy Up the Back S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Trad Sucker S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Chronic, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Twisted S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Reacharound, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Stain S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Buff the Wood S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Golden Touch S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Heart Shaped Box S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Overdrive T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Leftomaniac S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Rug Muncher! S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Ball Scratcher S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Cream Machine, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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| Type: | Sport, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | Jeff Moll, 1994 |
| Page Views: | 3,722 total · 20/month |
| Shared By: | Monomaniac on Nov 11, 2009 |
| Admins: | Shirtless Mike, DrRockso RRG, Luke Cornejo, Billy Simek |
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Access Issue: Private Property
Details
In 2011, the Ventura Family (owner of Miguel’s Pizza) purchased the land above the cliff line, and the RRGCC’s 2017 purchase of the land beneath the cliff line and the surrounding areas ensures that the Motherlode, Chocolate Factory, and southeastern end of Sore Heel are climber-owned.
Description
Looking for something a little different? This route will test your balance & footwork more than your fitness. The technical prow requires patience and focus, not the typical bulging forearms found elsewhere along these cliffs. For this reason, this route is a poor warmup (except maybe for other weirdness like Swahili Slang) but it can offer some entertainment after The Undertow Wall has worked you over.
Begin with easy stemming up the dirty, mossy gulley. Move left onto the prow, and work between the horizontal breaks with long reaches and highsteps. Look left for the occasional sharp, incut edge. The right side of the arete will provide sloping sidepulls at a few key moments. The sustained nature of the climbing will keep you on your toes, and the stingy bolting will keep you focused.
Begin with easy stemming up the dirty, mossy gulley. Move left onto the prow, and work between the horizontal breaks with long reaches and highsteps. Look left for the occasional sharp, incut edge. The right side of the arete will provide sloping sidepulls at a few key moments. The sustained nature of the climbing will keep you on your toes, and the stingy bolting will keep you focused.
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