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Hairstyles and Attitudes
5.10a/b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 2.4 from 34
votes
Routes in Dragon Arch
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Dragon Arch T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Enter the Dragon T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Gimme Danger T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Hairstyles and Attitudes T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Iridescence S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Last Shout T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Lunar Tick S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Ralph, Herb, Bert, and Ernie T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Rodeo Girls in Bondage T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Toymakers Dream T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Two Heads Are Better Than One T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Valentine Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | Stuart & Bret Ruckman, 1980 |
| Page Views: | 2,633 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Boissal . on Nov 9, 2009 |
| Admins: | Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
The Ruckmans recommend starting this route by climbing the face to the right of the Dragon Arch, which involves 5.8 face moves up and around the precarious-looking stack of blocks on widely spaced gear. The gritty face above leads to a dihedral that is home to - wait for it - a right-leaning LCC crack!!
Lieback this awkward beast using the occasional jam and face feature until you can pull onto a slab just above the Dragon Arch anchor. From there, a few slab moves bring you to a bolted belay. Bring up your second and rap or shred your rope trying to lower.
Hairstyles is a worthy outing and would be loads more fun if it saw some traffic and cleaned up a bit. Get after it and fight the lean!!
Lieback this awkward beast using the occasional jam and face feature until you can pull onto a slab just above the Dragon Arch anchor. From there, a few slab moves bring you to a bolted belay. Bring up your second and rap or shred your rope trying to lower.
Hairstyles is a worthy outing and would be loads more fun if it saw some traffic and cleaned up a bit. Get after it and fight the lean!!
Location
The recommended start is the same as Dragon Arch, a short groove/hand crack. Step out right just below the arch and head up the face toward a right-facing dihedral.
The alternate start involves scrambling up the loose and scrub oak filled gully to the east and following a treed ramp to the base of the dihedral.
The alternate start involves scrambling up the loose and scrub oak filled gully to the east and following a treed ramp to the base of the dihedral.
Protection
This "hand crack" climbs suspiciously like a thin hands/finger crack lieback, meaning you can leave the hand-size pieces at home.
Gear from red C3 to a #1 with doubles on .5 and .75 (BD cams) will suffice, although a #3 can be dropped in the lower section and an extra .4 and #1 could find a home in the crack if you wanted to sew it up.
Medium to large nuts are also welcome.
Sling long at the start and try to keep the rope out of a couple of grooves, otherwise expect rope drag OF DOOM!
2-bolt anchor on the slab (shared with Toymaker's Dream) with fresh webbing and rap rings. Rap off into said gully, seems like it would take all of a 60m rope to get down.
Gear from red C3 to a #1 with doubles on .5 and .75 (BD cams) will suffice, although a #3 can be dropped in the lower section and an extra .4 and #1 could find a home in the crack if you wanted to sew it up.
Medium to large nuts are also welcome.
Sling long at the start and try to keep the rope out of a couple of grooves, otherwise expect rope drag OF DOOM!
2-bolt anchor on the slab (shared with Toymaker's Dream) with fresh webbing and rap rings. Rap off into said gully, seems like it would take all of a 60m rope to get down.
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