Type: | Trad, Sport, 350 ft (106 m), 4 pitches, Grade III |
FA: | Tom Gilje |
Page Views: | 3,988 total · 22/month |
Shared By: | charley graham on Nov 9, 2009 |
Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
AKA: Roofs from Hell, The Separate Reality of Moab. Like the rest of Gilje's routes, this one ain't no gimme. Four distinct 5.11 cruxes: thin face, thin corner, overhanging jugs and a big roof-crack to finish makes for a multi-pitch Wingate route as action packed as any other in the desert.
pitch 1: thin vertical scoops protected by bolts. 5.11c, 100ft.
pitch 2: bolt protected climbing up corners and slabs. 5.10, 100 ft.
pitch 3: hard to protect thin corner directly above the spacious belay ledge. 5.11 pg13, 50ft.
pitch 4: The crux. Overhanging face to horizontal crack. 5.11c, 100ft.
pitch 1: thin vertical scoops protected by bolts. 5.11c, 100ft.
pitch 2: bolt protected climbing up corners and slabs. 5.10, 100 ft.
pitch 3: hard to protect thin corner directly above the spacious belay ledge. 5.11 pg13, 50ft.
pitch 4: The crux. Overhanging face to horizontal crack. 5.11c, 100ft.
Location
Far right side of the ice cream parlor. Look at the skyline and locate the imposing horizontal roof crack, then extrapolate downward to find the start of the route. The first pitch begins from a small ledge and is the only bolt protected line in the vicinity. Descent is via rappel from an anchor to the right of the top-out.
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