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MD 20/20

5.9 R, Sport, 140 ft (42 m),  Avg: 2.4 from 38 votes
FA: unknown
Texas > Enchanted Rock… > Main Dome > Cheap Wine Wall
Warning Access Issue: Rule changes for pets and trail closures 30 minutes after sunset DetailsDrop down

Description

Originally a top rope route, this fine Enchanted Rock climb was later bolted by the first ascensionist in order to entertain the pleading cries of the masses to make it a bold lead. Certainly bold since the average stretch between bolts is 20'+ feet, including a "heady" section between bolt #3 and #4....a possible ankle breaker on the slab underneath the overlap. A quality slab route nonetheless! Highly recommended!

Start by locating 2 bolts on the initial slab section (15' left of Ripple and 10' right of an obvious black stain...often wet). Clip the 2 bolts while heading up to the overlap/headwall. Clip the 3rd bolt above the overlap (a height dependant reach to clip) and make a balancy mantle onto the slab above. Delicate footwork and small crimps up and slightly right lead to clipping the 4th bolt (the crux...a mental one for sure!). From bolt #4, continue up the dark section of rock and clip the 5th bolt and eventually to the achors above. Lower off with a 6o meter rope.

Location

This route it situated 15' left of the start of 'Ripple'. Locate 2 bolts on slab above before it reaches an overlap/headwall. A 60 meter rope will reach the ground to lower off the anchors.

Protection

- (5) bolts, to a 2-bolt anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Kayla getting over the ledge and working into the 4th bolt crux.
[Hide Photo] Kayla getting over the ledge and working into the 4th bolt crux.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Dave Daly
Kernville, CA
  5.9- R
[Hide Comment] Nice route. A bit spooky after the 3rd bolt. Did this as the last route of the day...just as it started to rain! =O Nov 9, 2009
mattm
TX
  5.9 PG13
[Hide Comment] Agree with the comments on TJ Swan. 20/20 is not more difficult than TJ. 5.8. You can get gear in below the headwall but it's pretty straightforward to reach up and clip the bolt above the bulge. A bit spicy moving to the next bolt so a heads up belay to keep you off the slab below would be nice. Didn't feel R to me - more PG13 Jan 18, 2014
David Arredondo
Austin, TX
  5.8
[Hide Comment] Great route. No harder or scarier than any of the other slab moderates in the park. A little to easy for 5.9 in my book, but I may be splitting hairs. Nov 12, 2018
geoguy gates
Houston, TX
 
[Hide Comment] Well bolted by E-Rock standards and a very fun lead, not R maybe PG with thematic elements. Oct 30, 2023