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The White Feather

5.11d, Trad, 550 ft (167 m), 5 pitches, Grade III,  Avg: 3.8 from 12 votes
FA: FA Harry Young, Robin Barley FFA Colin Moorhead Craig Mcgee
International > N America > Canada > British Columbia > Squamish > Slhanay
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Description

Good new 5 pitch line with one truly outstanding pitch, the "feather' pitch is surely one the best 5.11's Squamish has to offer.

Location

Approximately 40m right of Straight Outta Squammpton.
Two rope rappel gets you down in 3 rappels

Protection

Nuts and a double set of cams, include 1 #4 camalot.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The Feather pitch!
[Hide Photo] The Feather pitch!
The awesome "Feather" pitch<br>
*photo by J. Frimer
[Hide Photo] The awesome "Feather" pitch photo by J. Frimer
David following the 11d slab traverse.
[Hide Photo] David following the 11d slab traverse.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

phillip Hranicka
Bend, OR
[Hide Comment] Just climbed this today and wanted to mention that it is possible to rap this line with one 70m rope.

Also: above the first pitch we went slightly right and up to a bolt (that is not marked on the topo) before continuing up the crack instead of left to the wide crack. This variation was easy and created less rope drag.

Finally, the start of the Feather pitch is thin before clipping the bolt and reaching the locks. I recommend that the belayer lower their stance a ways to give the leader room to climb (and/or fall).

Final, 10d pitch felt tough, but that might just be my lack of slab skills. Really cool, fun route! Aug 14, 2010
Matthew Tangeman
SW Colorado
 
[Hide Comment] can confirm the first move of the 10d slab pitch might be the hardest move on the route unless you're 6'5" with a positive ape index. We took the original start (wide 5.9 crack) which is a blatantly bolted crack but less contrived and cleaner than the 11a start. The Feather itself is incredible, as good as the split pillar and more splitter and fun than the daily planet.

Very easy to rap with a single 70 (probably even a 60) by using the Bella Coola/Dean Channel anchors just lookers left of the topout. 4 raps this way I believe? Jul 10, 2018
Monty
Golden, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Great route! The 11d traverse pitch and Feather pitch were both awesome, but the other pitches detract a bit from the overall quality of the route. I found the last move of the 11d traverse to be much harder/longer than the reach described by others on the last 10d pitch, but maybe I was just pumped...

I'll echo Philip's comment about the start of the feather pitch: getting to the bolt is pretty thin/cruxy. To avoid falling on to my belayer, I aided up on an rp (#3 or #4 dmm brass) clipped the bolt, then lowered back to the belay and fired the moves on TR.

The nuts on the anchor below the Feather pitch were loose so bring a wrench. Jul 7, 2019
Jacob Aragones
Vancouver, BC
[Hide Comment] Amazing route, took the 5.9 bolted start, first pitch seemed dirty. Careful for some loose flakes up to the traverse pitch. Nuts on the anchor before the crux pitch were still loose, bring a wrench. We were able to reach the first bolt by stepping on slings at the anchor. One of the best singular pitches on the Slhanay, Go do it! Sep 5, 2023