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Eye in the Sky
5.10b R,
Trad, 1500 ft (455 m), 7 pitches, Grade III,
Avg: 3 from 1
vote
FA: Mark Spencer, Shirley Spencer, Dan Abbot & David Abbot, April 1985
California
> Yosemite NP
> Yosemite Valley
> Valley S Side
> D. Half Dome
> 4. Southwest Face
Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
The start is on the right side of the rope up ledge for Snake Dike. First pitch heads right for a short pitch to an anchor on 1/4" bolts then the second pitch follows a runout dike the moving slightly left leads to a runout face that joins Snake Dike at the end of the second pitch then goes straight up the face above the anchor, don't traverse left as that leads to the Snake Dike. Natural pro is needed for the 10B pitch up high. Following 6 pitches are primarily 5.7 with some sections of 5.9 to easy 5.10 and use some spaced bolts and a variety of gear.
Location
Approach same as snake dike. and start is just to the right of Snake Dike.
Protection
some gear might be helpful in a few spots, otherwise a few draws for the extremely runout climbing on quarter inchers.
[Hide Photo] Half Dome - SW Face - On the Edge, West Corner, Labor of Love, Snake in the Grass, Salathe', Two Hoofers, Blondike, Dome Polishers, Deuceldike, Snake Dike, Eye in the Sky, Snake Dance
[Hide Photo] The anchors in 2009, the year before Roger got up there. Most of the bolts were protruding from the rock 1/4-3/8 inches. Felt heady especially on the first two pitches up to the shared belay with S…
[Hide Photo] Looking down the crux 6th pitch. (Reid Guide pitches not Sloan since he missed the first two pitches.)
[Hide Photo] Finishing the 5th and looking up the 6th Pitch. Reid Guide pitches not Sloan since he missed the first two pitches.
[Hide Photo] Starting the 3rd pitch. This is where Snake Dike goes left to meet the Snake Dike. (Reid Guide pitches not Sloan since he missed the first two pitches.)
[Hide Comment] The route does not actually start after the first pitch of Snake Dike,it starts off the right side of the rope up ledge for Snake Dike. It heads right for a short 5.9 pitch to an anchor on 1/4" bolts then the second pitch follows a runout dike to a runout face that joins Snake Dike at the end of the second pitch then goes straight up the face above the anchor instead of traversing to the Snake Dike. Natural pro is needed for the 10B pitch up high. I thought this was a high quality route in a great position, but would recommend it only if you enjoy runouts on old bolts. Almost all protection bolts are 1/4" and many are protruding more than a 1/4" to 1/2" from the rock.
Jun 4, 2010
[Hide Comment] This climb is at most a 5.9, and even for that grade it seemed a lot easier than some other Valley 5.9's like Quicksilver and Angelica. I also get the feeling that the FA used up all their bolts on the first 5 pitches and then had to make due with gear anchors and runout climbing for the last 3 pitches. The "10b" (more like 5.8) 6th pitch is quite runout with a really bad fall onto a low-angle slab below. Expect 5.7 R/X climbing. But it's still a really cool pitch with interesting climbing in a shallow corner with a dike on the left-hand wall. Good climb, big approach, bolts are good-to-go now, do it instead of Snake Dike if you're up for a 5.9 R.
Apr 6, 2015
[Hide Comment] It is entirely possible to mistakenly end up on this route from snake dike. Doing so makes for quite the day if you chose to go up without a rope. With a rope, its easy to correct your mistake.
May 2, 2019
[Hide Comment] On the first ascent of Snake Dike, Eric Beck did climb out right onto where Snake Dance or Eye in the Sky are now. He placed at least one bolt with E. BECK on the hanger (Roger showed it to me). His partners urged him to come back, so they could instead traverse left to the main dike on Snake Dike.
May 12, 2021
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He placed at least one bolt with E. BECK on the hanger (Roger showed it to me).
His partners urged him to come back, so they could instead traverse left to the main dike on Snake Dike. May 12, 2021