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Pudd's Pretty Dress
5.12d,
Sport, 90 ft (27 m),
Avg: 3.9 from 31
votes
FA: Doug Reed 1990
W Virginia
> New River Gorge…
> New River Gorge…
> Endless Wall
> E) Kaymoor Slabs
Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS
Details
All of the crags within the New River Gorge proper are on national parklands, and drone use is prohibited here. There has been some discussion about places to launch drones that are not on park property, and then flying them over the gorge. This is super poor form; don't do it. Park regulations prohibit all drone use over the boundaries without a permit.
Description
Work up the chimney, corner feature till you can step left onto the face. Head up the left facing flake that arches to the left out onto the steep wall. Once the flake ends start a series of boulder problems on crimps and pockets up the steep orange wall with rests in between on horizontals. The crux comes with a really long reach going to the 9th bolt. Finish by pulling delicately onto the slab.
Fun route with a good variety of holds, a fairly distinct crux though plenty of other difficult moves, and the potential to blow it all getting onto the slab.
Location
At the far right side of Kaymoor slabs locate the steep wall that is set in a little from the rest with a left facing corner/chimney at the right edge. Pudd's Pretty Dress starts up this corner and takes the left line of bolts up the orange section of the wall. There is a line that goes more straight up from the 2nd or 3rd bolt that is 5.13a.
[Hide Photo] I broke this hold off from the horizontal after the undercling and before the pockets. It really affected my beta but not my wife's. So if it affects yours, I'm sorry. I'm blaming thanksgiving…
[Hide Comment] Felt like a hard endurance burn once I got in shape for it. There's the hand jam rest around 40% of the way and a couple other micro rests, but it otherwise flows and flows. Gorgeous climb.
Apr 10, 2019
[Hide Comment] I broke the incut tooth hold off from the horizontal after the undercling and before the pockets. It really affected my beta but not my wife’s. So if it affects yours, I’m sorry. I’m blaming thanksgiving…. See the picture I uploaded for more information.
Nov 27, 2021
[Hide Comment] This route is great! There are a couple individual moves that feel somewhat hard but mostly it's just really sustained. To me it felt way harder than any of the other 12d's I've done at the New.
Oct 3, 2022
Arvada, CO
Silver Spring, MD
Charlotte, NC
Charlotte, NC
Fredericton, NB
Charlotte, NC
Blacksburg, VA
This might be the best route I've done. Once you get to the orange rock it's so sustained... bring your RRG fitness Mar 18, 2024