Northern Revival
5.12c YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks IX- UIAA 27 ZA E6 6b British PG13
Avg: 4 from 1 vote
Type: | Trad, 360 ft (109 m), 4 pitches |
FA: | Matt McCormick and Naomi Risch, Aug, 2008 |
Page Views: | 3,784 total · 21/month |
Shared By: | Matt McCormick on Oct 19, 2009 |
Admins: | Morgan Patterson, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, Jim Lawyer |
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Description
Follows the right-facing corner system just right of Too Wet to Plow. Amazing position and unique movement with steep bouldery sequences on pinches and slopey crimps, requiring many small cams in a row. With proper rope management you can combine P1 and P2. The name comes from McCormick getting reinvigorated from climbing in the north country. This route is yet to see a repeat. Get after it!
Start: Same as Wiessner Route.
P1 5.5 G: Climb P1 of Wiessner Route to the first big ledge. Traverse to the right end of the ledge below a left-leaning, left-facing corner and belay on small cams. 70'
P2 5.10d PG: Follow the left-facing corner system up and left using many long slings to reduce drag later in the pitch. At the top of the corner, step back right past a bolt and continue up past small cam placements and another bolt to a fixed anchor on a hanging ramp. (Note: A red Alien or large HB offset protect the moves to the anchor.) 80'
P3 5.12c PG: Work up and right past two bolts (crux) and follow the corner until below a small roof where the crack runs out (black alien under the roof is the only piece that will fit). Run it out up and right to a shallow left-facing corner and good gear. Pull out right around the corner and up the face to a beautiful ledge and fixed anchor. 150'
P4 5.9 PG: A wonderfully exposed pitch up the very prow of the wall: head up and left and pull around the left side of an arĂȘte. Stay just left of the arĂȘte past small gear placements to the top. 60'
Start: Same as Wiessner Route.
P1 5.5 G: Climb P1 of Wiessner Route to the first big ledge. Traverse to the right end of the ledge below a left-leaning, left-facing corner and belay on small cams. 70'
P2 5.10d PG: Follow the left-facing corner system up and left using many long slings to reduce drag later in the pitch. At the top of the corner, step back right past a bolt and continue up past small cam placements and another bolt to a fixed anchor on a hanging ramp. (Note: A red Alien or large HB offset protect the moves to the anchor.) 80'
P3 5.12c PG: Work up and right past two bolts (crux) and follow the corner until below a small roof where the crack runs out (black alien under the roof is the only piece that will fit). Run it out up and right to a shallow left-facing corner and good gear. Pull out right around the corner and up the face to a beautiful ledge and fixed anchor. 150'
P4 5.9 PG: A wonderfully exposed pitch up the very prow of the wall: head up and left and pull around the left side of an arĂȘte. Stay just left of the arĂȘte past small gear placements to the top. 60'
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