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Long Bandito route - hands into wide corner
5.11- YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3.3 from 49
votes
Routes in 4X4
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"Unnamed 5.11+" in Bloom Guide T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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4 x 4 T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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4x20 T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Carbondale Short Bus T 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a R |
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Collision Course T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Country T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Crankcase T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Dashboard Jesus T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Hammer Down T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Handbrake T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Hookers 'n Blow T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Hydraulic Pump T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Knobby Tires T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Lift Kit T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Lift Kit (Right Side of Crag) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Linkage T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Long Bandito route - hands into wide corner T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Marshmallow Safari T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Minute Lube T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Monster Truck T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Road Rage T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Salt-Lake Special T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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scout T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Take 10 T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Take 5 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Town T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Transmission Trouble T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Unknown 21 - aka 'every bit of awkward' T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Unknown (Creek Freak 12) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Unknown 5.12 Large Lichen Corner T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Unnamed 5.10 (route 34) - R of tunnel T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Unnamed 5.10 RF flake just R of knobby tires T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Unnamed 5.11 (36) - RF corner through 2 roofs T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Unnamed 5.11 (38) - twin crack start T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Unnamed 5.11 w/ 2 bolt start T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Variety Pack T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 150 ft (45 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 2,293 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Duncan P Ryan on Oct 12, 2009 · Updates |
| Admins: | slim, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Limited Toilet Facilities!
Details
Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
2024 Raptor Avoidance Areas (LIFTED 9/10/2024)- The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, and Reservoir Wall. See map in photos section.
Each spring raptors return to the Indian Creek area for nesting. Eagles, falcons, hawks, and other migratory birds use shallow depressions on ledges, cliffs and rock walls to build nests, often returning to the same site year after year to raise their young. The Bureau of Land Management (BLM) requests that visitors and recreationists avoid these areas during critical nesting periods which typically start in early March and last through late August. Avoiding recreational activity in the vicinity of the nest sites along and maintaining a safe viewing distance will help ensure survival of young birds.
Beginning March 1, the public is asked to avoid climbing in areas that are historically known to have raptor nesting activity or have a high potential for nesting. Areas that have potential nesting activity are referred to in many climbing guidebooks as: The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall and Critic’s Choice. While this list serves as a guide, it does not indicate every avoidance area or encompass all known names of the affected climbing areas. Please refer to the provided “Raptor Protection Map” to identify avoidance areas. The BLM is coordinating these raptor protection efforts with the Utah School and Institutional Trust Lands Administration, who is the administrator of the climbing areas known as Disappointment Cliffs and portions of the Second Meat Wall climbing area. The avoidance areas only cover a portion of Disappointment Cliffs, see the map for additional details.
In March, BLM biologists will begin the annual surveys of raptor activity to verify which historic nest sites are being used. Typically, by late April or early May, biologists can identify the nesting areas the raptors have selected. At that time the areas without active nests will be cleared for recreational use. The BLM requests that climbers, campers, and hikers completely avoid areas with active nests until the young birds have fledged, which is usually by late summer. Biologists will monitor nesting activity throughout the season and keep the recreation community informed of potential changes. Avoidance area notices and maps will be posted throughout the Indian Creek Corridor during the recreation season.
While falcons and eagles are not overly common sights in southeastern Utah, they are present throughout the area and keen-eyed observers are sometimes rewarded with their aerial acrobatics. Visitors can watch adult birds hunt or observe the antics of young raptors perfecting their flying techniques. These species in Utah continue to recover from low population levels, thanks in part to cooperation from the public, climbing communities and governmental partners. The BLM would like to remind the public there are private land holdings throughout the Indian Creek Corridor. Please respect private landowners’ boundaries and signage.
For questions about this avoidance areas, raptors, and migratory bird habitat in the Monticello area, please contact Rachel Wootton with the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500. Persons who use a telecommunications device for the deaf (TTY) may call 711 to leave a message or question. The TTY Relay System is available 24 hours a day, seven days a week. Replies are provided during normal business hours.
blm.gov/announcement/blm-an…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
2024 Raptor Avoidance Areas (LIFTED 9/10/2024)- The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, and Reservoir Wall. See map in photos section.
Each spring raptors return to the Indian Creek area for nesting. Eagles, falcons, hawks, and other migratory birds use shallow depressions on ledges, cliffs and rock walls to build nests, often returning to the same site year after year to raise their young. The Bureau of Land Management (BLM) requests that visitors and recreationists avoid these areas during critical nesting periods which typically start in early March and last through late August. Avoiding recreational activity in the vicinity of the nest sites along and maintaining a safe viewing distance will help ensure survival of young birds.
Beginning March 1, the public is asked to avoid climbing in areas that are historically known to have raptor nesting activity or have a high potential for nesting. Areas that have potential nesting activity are referred to in many climbing guidebooks as: The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall and Critic’s Choice. While this list serves as a guide, it does not indicate every avoidance area or encompass all known names of the affected climbing areas. Please refer to the provided “Raptor Protection Map” to identify avoidance areas. The BLM is coordinating these raptor protection efforts with the Utah School and Institutional Trust Lands Administration, who is the administrator of the climbing areas known as Disappointment Cliffs and portions of the Second Meat Wall climbing area. The avoidance areas only cover a portion of Disappointment Cliffs, see the map for additional details.
In March, BLM biologists will begin the annual surveys of raptor activity to verify which historic nest sites are being used. Typically, by late April or early May, biologists can identify the nesting areas the raptors have selected. At that time the areas without active nests will be cleared for recreational use. The BLM requests that climbers, campers, and hikers completely avoid areas with active nests until the young birds have fledged, which is usually by late summer. Biologists will monitor nesting activity throughout the season and keep the recreation community informed of potential changes. Avoidance area notices and maps will be posted throughout the Indian Creek Corridor during the recreation season.
While falcons and eagles are not overly common sights in southeastern Utah, they are present throughout the area and keen-eyed observers are sometimes rewarded with their aerial acrobatics. Visitors can watch adult birds hunt or observe the antics of young raptors perfecting their flying techniques. These species in Utah continue to recover from low population levels, thanks in part to cooperation from the public, climbing communities and governmental partners. The BLM would like to remind the public there are private land holdings throughout the Indian Creek Corridor. Please respect private landowners’ boundaries and signage.
For questions about this avoidance areas, raptors, and migratory bird habitat in the Monticello area, please contact Rachel Wootton with the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500. Persons who use a telecommunications device for the deaf (TTY) may call 711 to leave a message or question. The TTY Relay System is available 24 hours a day, seven days a week. Replies are provided during normal business hours.
blm.gov/announcement/blm-an…
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
#2 in old Bloom, #5 in new Bloom. This is a long route with variety. It begins in the tight hands crack just outside and to the right of the inside of the dihedral. Climb though good hands with many opportunities to stem left. After good hands it gets wide for brief section and pops you into clean cupped hands in white rock which widen ever so slightly to the top. The color change serves as a nice half-way mark if you're a little pumped. This is a long route and requires more than you can get out of a 70m. Take a couple ropes and a rest in the middle.
(per Steven Lucarelli's submittal, May 27 2014):
"This route starts to the right of the main corner up a left angling finger crack with feet. Continue up a hand crack on the left where the corner and starting crack meet, followed by a short section of fingers and offwidth. After the wide crack its pretty much hands to the anchor."
(per Steven Lucarelli's submittal, May 27 2014):
"This route starts to the right of the main corner up a left angling finger crack with feet. Continue up a hand crack on the left where the corner and starting crack meet, followed by a short section of fingers and offwidth. After the wide crack its pretty much hands to the anchor."
Location
Second line left of Marshmallow Safari. Round the corner and you're below a large, left-facing corner.
Protection
Many #2s and #3s BD for the top. The initial section will take #1s and .75s. Some will argue you should take several #4s or even a #5. But those people have eyes only for wide cracks and can't see the beauty of protecting deep within those wide sections. Couple of bolts at the top.
(per Steven Lucarelli's submittal, May 27, 2014):
(4).5, (3).75 & #1, (5)#2, (2)#3 & #4 Camalots. A 5 piece bolt w/ hanger and a wedge bolt w/ bandito hanger with chain and links make up the anchor. Also a 70m rope just reaches.
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