Type: | Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches, Grade II |
FA: | Paul Cobb, Tom McMillan - 1972 |
Page Views: | 6,460 total · 35/month |
Shared By: | Will Copeland on Oct 12, 2009 |
Admins: | Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier |
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Access Issue: 2023 seasonal raptor closure (January 15th-August 15th)
Details
fs.usda.gov/detail/nfsnc/ne…
Shortoff Mountain South: All routes between and including C.O and Paradigm Shift are closed.
Shortoff Mountain North: All climbing routes, cliff rim, and campsites within the red band marked on the map are closed to entry. No foot traffic or camping above or below the cliff in this section. Contact the USFS for more details: 828 652 2144.
NC Wall/Apricot Buttress/The Camel: On the NC Wall, all routes between and including Tightrope and Bumblebee Buttress are closed. Apricot Buttress and The Camel are closed.
Bynum Bluff: All routes are closed.
Shortoff Mountain South: All routes between and including C.O and Paradigm Shift are closed.
Shortoff Mountain North: All climbing routes, cliff rim, and campsites within the red band marked on the map are closed to entry. No foot traffic or camping above or below the cliff in this section. Contact the USFS for more details: 828 652 2144.
NC Wall/Apricot Buttress/The Camel: On the NC Wall, all routes between and including Tightrope and Bumblebee Buttress are closed. Apricot Buttress and The Camel are closed.
Bynum Bluff: All routes are closed.
Access Issue: Post Hurricane Helene Accessibility of Crags
Details
The CCC has created the list linked below of accessible and inaccessible climbing areas with some caveats. If you decide to head out for a day of climbing, please do not attempt to go to those marked ‘inaccessible’. Please note that all areas in WNC will have extensive tree damage and if you head out, use extra caution for all the trees above, especially on a windy day. Rock fall potential is also highest after a big weather event. Please use extra caution while climbing and prepare to self rescue if injured. Injury response time will be greatly limited for any injury currently, especially for a remote injury. Cell service is limited in all areas. Parking at accessible crags in the WNC/ Upstate SC region will likely be challenging. If the parking lot is full, go to a different area and do not park illegally or in a road. Make a plan B before leaving your house. Expect road detours on the way to the crag. NCdrive.gov updates road closures. Once you get to the crag, expect many trees blocking access trails and of course, come volunteer with the CCC to help us bring our climbing areas back!
carolinaclimbers.org/conten…
carolinaclimbers.org/conten…
Description
P1 (5.7)- Climb up a series of cracks about 50 feet to a bolt. Proceed right, below some shrubery. Clip into an anchor built from the shrub and a wrapped rock. Looked solid as of october 2009. The guidebook says there are bolts for anchors but I couldn't find them anywhere.
P2 (5.6)- Climb up 35 feet and up over a roof into a 5.4 section. It was (october 2009)very mossy, wet, and covered in lichen so watch your footing. Pitch ends in a tunnel leading to a very large ledge. Again, be careful, if it has rained recently the tunnel going up will be very slick.
P3 (5.7)- no need for anchor at the belay. climb up a corner (good spots for larger cams, BD-C4 #1,2,3), then over and around 200 feet to 2 bolts for an anchor.
P4 (5.2)- walk/climb to two more bolts about 30 feet up. From here you can walk to the left to the summit trail (1 mile) that takes you back to the parking lot. You could also rap down, but it's much quicker to walk back down and around to the bottom of the crag.
P2 (5.6)- Climb up 35 feet and up over a roof into a 5.4 section. It was (october 2009)very mossy, wet, and covered in lichen so watch your footing. Pitch ends in a tunnel leading to a very large ledge. Again, be careful, if it has rained recently the tunnel going up will be very slick.
P3 (5.7)- no need for anchor at the belay. climb up a corner (good spots for larger cams, BD-C4 #1,2,3), then over and around 200 feet to 2 bolts for an anchor.
P4 (5.2)- walk/climb to two more bolts about 30 feet up. From here you can walk to the left to the summit trail (1 mile) that takes you back to the parking lot. You could also rap down, but it's much quicker to walk back down and around to the bottom of the crag.
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