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Jabberwocky
5.12b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6b British R
Type: | Trad, Sport, 600 ft (182 m), 4 pitches, Grade III |
FA: | Jim Waugh and Ray Ringle, 1981 |
Page Views: | 8,870 total · 48/month |
Shared By: | Geir www.ToofastTopos.com on Oct 12, 2009 · Updates |
Admins: | adrian montaƱo, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Closure information appears to be in a transition state.
For the latest information, go to this link: fs.usda.gov/recarea/coronad…
Please take note of the request for climbers to avoid disturbing raptors if at all possible.
Self-policing our behavior is MUCH better than an outright ban!
CASA Page on Raptors for more information: theclimbershome.org/breedin…
Douglas Ranger District Tel: 520.364.6816.
For the latest information, go to this link: fs.usda.gov/recarea/coronad…
Please take note of the request for climbers to avoid disturbing raptors if at all possible.
Self-policing our behavior is MUCH better than an outright ban!
CASA Page on Raptors for more information: theclimbershome.org/breedin…
Douglas Ranger District Tel: 520.364.6816.
Description
A classic old-school route with beautiful climbing and some truly challenging sections. For those who aspire to climb some of the best hardman climbs in the Stronghold, this one should not be missed.
Starts approximately 50' left of Abracadaver beneath a boulder leaning against the wall.
Pitch 1 (5.12, 80'): Climb up underneath the boulder on to a slab. Six bolts protect moves leading up and right along a weakness into a corner. The crux after the final bolt (5.12).
Pitch 2 (5.11+, 85'): Excellent climbing up a crack in the a left facing corner. A combination of crack climbing, jams, and stemming make this a fabulous pitch. Pass a bulge in the crack on its left. Clip a bolt, traverse directly right, and continue up chickenheads to the anchors.
Pitch 3 (5.10R, 150'): Run out the bulgy, nearly unprotected slab (mostly easy, a move or two of 5.9) to a corner with crack. A small nut and a #2 bullnut can offer some marginal protection here if you happen to find the placements. A fall would be bad. Gain the well-protected but somewhat grainy crack and work up to a point where a thin crack diagonals up and right for about 7 feet. Follow it to the gorgeous crack and flake above. Belay with gear.
Pitch 4 (5.7, 160'): Climb the stunning low-angle flake/crack to the summit and a two bolt anchor.
Starts approximately 50' left of Abracadaver beneath a boulder leaning against the wall.
Pitch 1 (5.12, 80'): Climb up underneath the boulder on to a slab. Six bolts protect moves leading up and right along a weakness into a corner. The crux after the final bolt (5.12).
Pitch 2 (5.11+, 85'): Excellent climbing up a crack in the a left facing corner. A combination of crack climbing, jams, and stemming make this a fabulous pitch. Pass a bulge in the crack on its left. Clip a bolt, traverse directly right, and continue up chickenheads to the anchors.
Pitch 3 (5.10R, 150'): Run out the bulgy, nearly unprotected slab (mostly easy, a move or two of 5.9) to a corner with crack. A small nut and a #2 bullnut can offer some marginal protection here if you happen to find the placements. A fall would be bad. Gain the well-protected but somewhat grainy crack and work up to a point where a thin crack diagonals up and right for about 7 feet. Follow it to the gorgeous crack and flake above. Belay with gear.
Pitch 4 (5.7, 160'): Climb the stunning low-angle flake/crack to the summit and a two bolt anchor.
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