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Lycanthropia
5.12c YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks IX- UIAA 27 ZA E6 6b British PG13
Avg: 3.2 from 5
votes
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Yvonne T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | Martin Berzins |
| Page Views: | 4,261 total · 22/month |
| Shared By: | Matt McCormick on Sep 24, 2009 · Updates |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, Jim Lawyer |
Description
This route is yet another one of Martin Berzins' bold and hard additions to the Daks. Put up in 1991, this route contains some of the raddest and most desperate moves I've experienced on any route. The proximity to Drop Fly or Die is completely overshadowed by the quality of the climbing.
Climb the start of Drop Fly Or Die and at the first roof continue straight up in a tight hands and ringlocks crack. At the horizontal, move left into Drop Fly for 4'. Reach out, blindly place a wire or micro cam in the seam and then move right on small desperate holds into a crazy boulder sequence with no feet until your established in a finger lock and can place your next piece. Continue up the sustained crack above to the enormous guillotine flake and then right to a 2 bolt anchor.
Lycanthropia, Her Way: First climbed in 2023, It is possible to climb this route direct without traversing into Drop, Fly, or Die. Once at the horizontal, head straight up through difficult gastons, high feet, and lock offs. (5.13a) FA: Kristen Fiore
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