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Routes in The Witch
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Airy Interlude T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Ankles Away T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Brute Force T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Entity, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Gorilla Warfare T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Green Tide T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Hairy Interlude T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Iceberg T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Igor Unchained T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Innersanctum T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Nautilus, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13 |
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Pegleg T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Phosphorescent Flow T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Pit & The Pendulum, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Pizzazz T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Pulp Friction T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R |
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Shazam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Spook Book T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
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Terrorvision T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Wicked West of the Witch T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Witch Doctor T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | Mike Jaffe, Herb Laeger (July 1978) |
| Page Views: | 2,032 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Murf on Sep 21, 2009 |
| Admins: | Cory B, Matthew Fienup, Muscrat, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
You've had a great time at the Needles, and climbed all the classic moderates. Its your last day and you're looking for something fun to ease your aching boots into before you head for the highway...or more likely, the queue for Airy and Igor is 10 deep and you want to get on something before nightfall. Shazam looks like that classic Needles corner climbing capped with a large roof with wild exposure, or a cave finish to scuff up those pristine Carhartts you wore.
Full disclosure: Shazam is not that route.
Pitch 1: Starts in a left facing corner down and right of Igor Unchained. You have to navigate between the initial corner and a subcorner a bit to the right. The gear is tricky, the rock grainy, and the experience suboptimal. Belay right on a wide ledge that may have some rap slings. An alternate start is a larger left facing corner starting lower down the slope.
Pitch 2: From the belay continue up the corner to a wide ledge. The rock improves somewhat, but the pitch feels awkward at times and the gear continues to take a bit of fiddling. The climbing feels harder than it should to someone who thought about getting on Spook Book, and it leaves a bitter taste in your mouth.
Pitch 3: Climb up to the large roof, deciding early if you're going to attempt the airy roof to the right, or the "Spelunker's Variation" to the left. While it looks like you can work your way back to the right after climbing into the alcove, the rock is lichenous and the traverse unlikely. If you continue too far to the left, you will default to physical offwidth. Either way, this is the "money pitch" such as it is.
If you find yourself deserving a small bit of punishment and decided to go caving, a few pointers: not recommended for those with jacket size above a 42 regular, leave the shoes and helmet for your partner, and as always enjoy.
Full disclosure: Shazam is not that route.
Pitch 1: Starts in a left facing corner down and right of Igor Unchained. You have to navigate between the initial corner and a subcorner a bit to the right. The gear is tricky, the rock grainy, and the experience suboptimal. Belay right on a wide ledge that may have some rap slings. An alternate start is a larger left facing corner starting lower down the slope.
Pitch 2: From the belay continue up the corner to a wide ledge. The rock improves somewhat, but the pitch feels awkward at times and the gear continues to take a bit of fiddling. The climbing feels harder than it should to someone who thought about getting on Spook Book, and it leaves a bitter taste in your mouth.
Pitch 3: Climb up to the large roof, deciding early if you're going to attempt the airy roof to the right, or the "Spelunker's Variation" to the left. While it looks like you can work your way back to the right after climbing into the alcove, the rock is lichenous and the traverse unlikely. If you continue too far to the left, you will default to physical offwidth. Either way, this is the "money pitch" such as it is.
If you find yourself deserving a small bit of punishment and decided to go caving, a few pointers: not recommended for those with jacket size above a 42 regular, leave the shoes and helmet for your partner, and as always enjoy.
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