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All Locations >
W Virginia
> New River Gorge…
> Meadow River Gorge
> Upper Meadow
> 1. First Buttress
Floaters
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 3.4 from 239
votes
Routes in 1. First Buttress
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Vignette S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Typical Situation S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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West Virginia Two-Step S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Creature S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Floaters S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Ben Dunne T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Lady Punk S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Cross-Eyed and Blind S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Lamda S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Push S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Boomerang S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Black Crack T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Corner Pocket S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Eye of Mordor S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Toymaker S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Superman S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Pinocchio S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Andoullie S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Sausage S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Being Dani Andrada S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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You, Watch the Clocks! S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Todd Offenbacher, Eddie Begoon late 80s |
| Page Views: | 5,757 total · 30/month |
| Shared By: | Jeremy Steck on Sep 21, 2009 |
| Admins: | Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson |
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Access Issue: PARKING ALONG HIGHWAY 19
Details
- **NO PARKING SIGNS HAVE BEEN INSTALLED ALONG ROUTE 19 WHERE IT HAS BEEN CUSTOMARY TO PARK FOR MEADOW RIVER CLIMBING AND BOATING ACCESS. THIS MEANS NO PARKING ALONG ROUTE 19 SOUTH, BETWEEN THE BRIDGE AND UNDERWOOD RD.
Description
This is yet another great climb at the First Buttress. Start by climbing up very easy blocky ledges to a large ledge where to you can clip the first bolt. From here, climb the short face using very positive horizontals to mantle up to a stance. (place a cam after the mantle if you like). The easiest way to access the arete is to climb around the left side of the small overhang and traverse back to the right on a large ledge. After you clip the bolt, climb up on the left side of the arete to gain the next bolt. The crux is the section leading toward and away from the 3rd bolt. From the 3rd bolt, head around the right side of the arete and stay on that side to the top.
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