Brass Balls, Steel Nuts, and Sticky Rubber
5.12d YDS 7c French 28 Ewbanks IX UIAA 28 ZA E6 6b British PG13
Avg: 4 from 1 vote
Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
FA: | Peter Kamitses |
Page Views: | 3,255 total · 18/month |
Shared By: | Matt McCormick on Sep 21, 2009 |
Admins: | Morgan Patterson, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, Jim Lawyer |
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Description
Yet another amazing addition to the Daks by Peter Kamitses and a prime example of the incredible potential for many more hard routes in this region! Yet to have seen a second ascent!
An amazing route following thin yet solid flakes and sidepulls to a boulder problem crux and onward into sustained arete hugging above. The climbing is characterized by insecure moves on bad feet and few rests.
An amazing route following thin yet solid flakes and sidepulls to a boulder problem crux and onward into sustained arete hugging above. The climbing is characterized by insecure moves on bad feet and few rests.
Location
This route starts in a small right facing corner with a splitter finger crack in it. Located 20' up and right from where the trail meets the wall and just left around the arete from Mistah Luthah. The route shares an anchor with Mistah Luthah and can be toproped after completing that route.
Protection
Protection is good but mostly small and well spaced out in spots. The first ascent was done in headpoint style and most would be wise to do the same as placements are subtle and extremely strenuous. Sending ground-up would be proud! Bring many small (purple C3 or black alien) size cams and many rp's. The crux is protected by a #8/#9 BD stopper.
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