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Milk Run
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British A0
Avg: 3.4 from 25
votes
Routes in Tantalus Wall
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Cannabis Wall T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c C2 |
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Great White North, The T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Tantalus Wall T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a C0 |
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Cerberus T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Wrist Twister C2+ |
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Milk Road T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c C0 |
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Milk Run T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b A0 |
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Midnight Run T,S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Yosemite Pinnacle Left Side T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, Aid, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | P. Croft, T. Knight, 1982 |
| Page Views: | 4,102 total · 22/month |
| Shared By: | Peter Spindloe on Sep 16, 2009 |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
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Access Issue: SIGNIFICANT ROCK FALL CLOSURES - UPDATED Feb 29th 2024
Details
For the most up-to-date information about closures in the Stawamus Chief Park, please refer to the following link: bcparks.ca/stawamus-chief-p…
The closures posted on this Mountain Project page are the latest according to the date mentioned above.
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TRAIL TO THE PROW AND ECHELON WALL VIA THE SHERIFF'S BADGE CLOSURE
Due to a rockfall event on April 17, 2023, the approach/access trail to the Prow and Echelon wall via the Sheriff’s Badge have been impacted. Please stay out of this area until the full extent of this event has been determined.
Posted April 17, 2023
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Due to multiple significant rockfalls in the North Wall, Slhanay, Grand Wall, and Western Dihedrals climbing areas of Stawamus Chief, a large number of climbing routes and bouldering areas are currently closed until further notice. Efforts are underway to assess and remove hazards in the hopes of opening some of these areas soon.
NORTH WALL CLOSURE
The following routes in this area remain closed until further notice due to a large rock fall event. All routes between Lunar Tide and Polaris on the upper Zodiac Wall, as well as all routes between Parallel Universe and Polaris on the Lower Zodiac Wall. The Climb known as Angel’s Crest is open, please be cautions on the approach and avoid the debris field to the left.
Climbing Route Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…
GRAND WALL BOULDERS CLOSURE
Due to hazards created by significant rockfall events the following bouldering areas(and associated trails) remain closed until further notice. Lipsmack: Black Sabbath & Halfway Around the world, Octogon: Kemoslabby and Viper: Old and Serious, Beachcomber & Towlie.
Boudlering Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…
WESTERN DIHEDRALS CLOSURE
Due to hazards created by significant rockfall events the following climbing routes between Teenage wasteland and Deadend Dihedral remain closed until further notice. Including: The Black Dyke, The Gauntlet, The Façade, Sticky Fingers, Sunset Strip, Millenium Falcon, Rutabaga, Turnip Arrowroot, and Europa.
Climbing Route Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…
Updated June 30, 2023
The closures posted on this Mountain Project page are the latest according to the date mentioned above.
––––––––––
TRAIL TO THE PROW AND ECHELON WALL VIA THE SHERIFF'S BADGE CLOSURE
Due to a rockfall event on April 17, 2023, the approach/access trail to the Prow and Echelon wall via the Sheriff’s Badge have been impacted. Please stay out of this area until the full extent of this event has been determined.
Posted April 17, 2023
––––––––––
Due to multiple significant rockfalls in the North Wall, Slhanay, Grand Wall, and Western Dihedrals climbing areas of Stawamus Chief, a large number of climbing routes and bouldering areas are currently closed until further notice. Efforts are underway to assess and remove hazards in the hopes of opening some of these areas soon.
NORTH WALL CLOSURE
The following routes in this area remain closed until further notice due to a large rock fall event. All routes between Lunar Tide and Polaris on the upper Zodiac Wall, as well as all routes between Parallel Universe and Polaris on the Lower Zodiac Wall. The Climb known as Angel’s Crest is open, please be cautions on the approach and avoid the debris field to the left.
Climbing Route Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…
GRAND WALL BOULDERS CLOSURE
Due to hazards created by significant rockfall events the following bouldering areas(and associated trails) remain closed until further notice. Lipsmack: Black Sabbath & Halfway Around the world, Octogon: Kemoslabby and Viper: Old and Serious, Beachcomber & Towlie.
Boudlering Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…
WESTERN DIHEDRALS CLOSURE
Due to hazards created by significant rockfall events the following climbing routes between Teenage wasteland and Deadend Dihedral remain closed until further notice. Including: The Black Dyke, The Gauntlet, The Façade, Sticky Fingers, Sunset Strip, Millenium Falcon, Rutabaga, Turnip Arrowroot, and Europa.
Climbing Route Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…
Updated June 30, 2023
Access Issue: Camping
Details
The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
Yet another Peter Croft and Tammy Knight tour-de-force. A devious couple of pitches take you to a spectacular corner system
P1. Climb the obvious path through the moss and bushes past some surprisingly tricky and committing moves until you emerge from the vegetation and the wall sweeps out to your left (5.7). You could belay here, but there's no reason not to carry on to the station for Rock Loggers rather than belaying from the forest. There are two choices for getting there. You can head straight up to the first bolt on Tantalus Wall and then aid left to a groove and downclimb the groove to the station. This presents difficulties for protecting the second on the traverse and the downclimb as the groove is overgrown and slick when wet. The other option is to immediately traverse straight out left on some bolts. This was wet so we opted for the groove, which was also wet and unpleasant.
P2. Head up the obvious left facing crack until it arches around to become an undercling. It apparently goes free at 11d, but is called 10c if you use the second and third bolt for aid. After the bolts it continues to head left and the holds appear to die out just before you reach the corner. The trick here is to downclimb about ten feet, then go left into the corner and back up to the station. (5.11d or 5.10c A0)
P3. This beautiful left facing corner has great locks, takes great pro and is one of the most sustained pitches of its grade around. (5.10b).
P4. The spectacular corner continues and is long and steep. (5.10d).
You can rappel here (double ropes), continue up Midnight Run, or take a 5.8 pitch to join up with pitch 5 of Tantalus Wall. You can also connect up with the start of Cerberus.
P1. Climb the obvious path through the moss and bushes past some surprisingly tricky and committing moves until you emerge from the vegetation and the wall sweeps out to your left (5.7). You could belay here, but there's no reason not to carry on to the station for Rock Loggers rather than belaying from the forest. There are two choices for getting there. You can head straight up to the first bolt on Tantalus Wall and then aid left to a groove and downclimb the groove to the station. This presents difficulties for protecting the second on the traverse and the downclimb as the groove is overgrown and slick when wet. The other option is to immediately traverse straight out left on some bolts. This was wet so we opted for the groove, which was also wet and unpleasant.
P2. Head up the obvious left facing crack until it arches around to become an undercling. It apparently goes free at 11d, but is called 10c if you use the second and third bolt for aid. After the bolts it continues to head left and the holds appear to die out just before you reach the corner. The trick here is to downclimb about ten feet, then go left into the corner and back up to the station. (5.11d or 5.10c A0)
P3. This beautiful left facing corner has great locks, takes great pro and is one of the most sustained pitches of its grade around. (5.10b).
P4. The spectacular corner continues and is long and steep. (5.10d).
You can rappel here (double ropes), continue up Midnight Run, or take a 5.8 pitch to join up with pitch 5 of Tantalus Wall. You can also connect up with the start of Cerberus.
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