All Locations > S Dakota > Custer SP > Sylvan Lake > Middle Earth > Far Downs

Of Quartz It Goes

Name: Of Quartz It Goes
Rating: 3.6

5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British

Routes in Far Downs

L › R R › L A › Z

	Bard S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Bard's Arrow T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Bard’s Bow String T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Black Arrow T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Left Wing of Smaug T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Of Quartz It Goes S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Orcrist T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Smaugs Tail T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
	West of the Sun T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

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Type:	Sport, 125 ft (38 m)
FA:	unknown
Page Views:	3,782 total · 20/month
Shared By:	John Gunnels on Sep 7, 2009
Admins:	Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mikel Madsen, Mark Rafferty Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

Dingus McGee's guide book rates this route 5.6. I thought it felt a bit stiffer than that. Big quartz knobs gradually become smaller and slope the "wrong" way. A couple moves between bolts 4 and 6 make you concentrate... just as the wall bulges a bit... hence "my" grade.

Location

As you approach from the West end of Far Downs, "Of Quartz It Goes" is the third bolted line you encounter on the North Face of the formation. NOTABLE LANDMARK: You must scramble up a small "boulder" to find the start of the route.

Protection

The first couple bolts call for quick draws. However, I would recommend shoulder length runners for the rest of this route as it wanders quite a ways to the right... and then back left to the summit.