Type: Ice, 500 ft (152 m), 4 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Clint Cummins & John Imbrie, December 28, 1977
Page Views: 6,189 total · 33/month
Shared By: bradley white on Aug 21, 2009 · Updates
Admins: Jason Hayden, Kristen Fiore, Luc-514

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

When it's in, the bottom half is in thin. the first pitch is the crux but the climb overall is sustained (WI5). I've only been on the top half third pitch.

P1: WI4 R into WI5. Belay in a cave. (60m)

P2: WI4-. Belay on a spatious ledge (30m)

P3: WI5. Belay on a spatious ledge (30m). Can be linked with P2.

P4: WI5. Belay on a tree on the left (30m). Often very wet. Can be linked with P3. This is often considered the end of the route.

P5: WI4+. In the trees and set back from the main route. Often skipped. A "bonus" pitch.

If you climb the bonus pitch, note that it's still a long way before you top out and it involves some mixed climbing up mossy rock while negotiating dense brush. The rappel descent is much more convenient. However if you choose to top out the path of least resistance is to follow the drainage the entire way and is ~400' above the top of the WI4+ pitch.

Location Suggest change

West side of the ice climbing cliffs

Protection Suggest change

Short ice screws and a cool head are often needed for the bottom pitch of this climb which is usually thin. The first ascent in the late 1970's boldly climbed the rock to reach the ice.  Few climbers, if any, do it that way now. It is better to wait for the ice to form all the way down. This is an uber-classic at The Lake, one not to be missed!

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