Type: Sport, 30 ft (9 m)
FA: Tristan Higbee
Page Views: 735 total · 4/month
Shared By: Tristan Higbee on Aug 17, 2009 · Updates
Admins: Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

This route climbs the short but beautiful overhanging face just west of Dork Dot Rock. Climb up and right on easy stuff to clip the first bolt and then cut left to the second bolt on horizontal edges. Grab the big jugs and then grab one of the coolest holds ever, a large quartzite tooth sticking horizontally out of the wall. Make some more moves on positive, incut edges. The crux is at the last bolt. You need to do a reachy move with bad feet.

This route is fun because it feels really exposed, since you start on a ledge that's pretty high up.

You can top rope this route; it's a little sketchy to set up but very doable.

Location Suggest change

The obvious sheer face west of Dork Dot Rock. To get there, hike to the very base of Dork Dot and then do some class 3 scrambling over to the base of this route. The little belay spot isn't very comfortable, so climb fast!

You can see the face that the route climbs in this picture of Perin's. It's the dark, shaded, steep wall just left of the yellow circle. It is directly between and underneath the "o" and the "t" in "Dot."

Protection Suggest change

4 bolts to chains (and one belay bolt)

Be Careful on this belay stance- It is deceptively dangerous and one slip could be fatal. Make an anchor off the belay bolt and make sure both partners stay secured at all times.

Photos

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