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Phatt Ass
5.9- YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 16 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 2 from 11 votes
Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
FA: | Mark Sargent, Mike Kurilich, Phil Baldwin July 2009 |
Page Views: | 1,987 total · 11/month |
Shared By: | Mark Sgt on Aug 16, 2009 |
Admins: | Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
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Description
5.8/5.9 Start is just right of the large right facing corner. Ascend the crack rising in an upward right traverse, using funky cross-thru lieback moves clipping 7 grey bolts. Pretty cool and unique climbing. More experienced climbers may be able to miss out on some bolts by making semi-blind pro placements at their feet as they layback; just realize the crack flairs in places and the traversing nature of the lower crack combined with the ground upsloping has you at groundfall potential longer than other cracks of this length. However you do it - its a climbers choice. Continue up thru the left side of a crack/break placing either a medium stopper or tech friend and then up left for 5 more bolts to anchor. 12 bolts total. 20 meters
Protection
Depending how you approach the lead. Either clip bolts and maybe one medium stopper placement or more experienced leaders could place small/medium cams and small wires. More experienced climbers may be able to miss out on some bolts by making semi-blind pro placements at their feet as they layback; just realize the crack flairs in places and the traversing nature of the lower crack combined with the ground upsloping has you at groundfall potential longer than other cracks of this length. However you do it - its a climbers choice.
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