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Last Rites
5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 4 from 3 votes
Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches, Grade II |
FA: | KC Baum- roped solo |
Page Views: | 965 total · 5/month |
Shared By: | Skyeler Congdon on Aug 13, 2009 |
Admins: | Jesse Zacher, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
"Bold and intimidating, this route is sure to please the hardcore crack climber."
This is a sustained and serious route. It was a classic line when it went up nearly 20 years ago. But since then, the bat guano Baum mentions has become HUGE! It has caused the lower third of the route to become... slick... bring some hand sanitizer.
The route itself climbs a giant open book corner for 200 feet. There are 4 cruxes: baggy fingers down low, a rest then a stout OW before the belay. Next, a bouldery throw into a steep finger lock right off the belay. Finally, the psychological crux: 20+ feet of full body stems with one marginal piece of pro- a red camalot. From a final rest there is a choice of 10 fingers in a left facing corner or a 9+ splitter on the right.
This is a sustained and serious route. It was a classic line when it went up nearly 20 years ago. But since then, the bat guano Baum mentions has become HUGE! It has caused the lower third of the route to become... slick... bring some hand sanitizer.
The route itself climbs a giant open book corner for 200 feet. There are 4 cruxes: baggy fingers down low, a rest then a stout OW before the belay. Next, a bouldery throw into a steep finger lock right off the belay. Finally, the psychological crux: 20+ feet of full body stems with one marginal piece of pro- a red camalot. From a final rest there is a choice of 10 fingers in a left facing corner or a 9+ splitter on the right.
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