[Hide Comment] Extend ~6 ft from Minnow anchors to avoid rope drag through tight notch, and/or sling around block at top of GWS. Nov 23, 2009

[Hide Comment] This is mostly easy (5.6) climbing except for the first 10' which is about 5.8. Average 5.7? A #5 Camalot is good to have if you want "anywhere" pro as #4s only fit in a few spots. You really only need a #3, #4, and a #5 to protect the whole thing. Jan 7, 2011

[Hide Comment] The block referred to above is loose and is just sitting on a ledge. My partner put a nut behind it for an anchor that got stuck, because the block moved slightly to accomodate it, then moved back. I went back the next day to remove the stopper and noticed this slight movement. It probably should NOT be trusted as an anchor, though it did hold my partner's body weight. Probably best to move up and L to the anchors atop SS Minnow (belaying there, not for TR), or up and right up an easy gully, then walk up and left to some big blocks that sit 6 feet below a single bolt anchor, then walk 100 yards R to the second gully, that is now cairned and is a 3rd class downclimb. Mar 8, 2016

[Hide Comment] Also, a 5.8 section and a 5.6 section do NOT average to 5.7 just as a 5.11 section with a 5.9 section don't average to 5.10! Grading is done for the hardest move of a climb. Mar 8, 2016

[Hide Comment] This climb has been cleaned and now has its own independent anchor installed. Much safer than the old traverse over to SS Minnow. Gear: #3, #4, 1 #5, and 1#6, and a .2 will sew that thing up. Dec 17, 2022

[Hide Comment] Did it with 1 #4 an 1 #5 C4 Camalots. Would have been nice not to just have 1 at a time walking them up.

I'd say take 2x #5s or even a #6 if you are not up for single-points of protection most of the way. Mar 5, 2024