All Locations > International > N America > Canada > British Columbia > Squamish > Stawamus Chief > Grand Wall Area

University Wall

Name: University Wall
Rating: 3.8

5.12- YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British C2

Routes in Grand Wall Area

L › R R › L A › Z

	Wall of Attrition T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	University Wall T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a C2
	Shadow, The T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
	Roman Chimneys T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Left Side, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Genius Loci S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
	Grinning Weasel, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Free Grand, The T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Grand Wall, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c A0
	Upper Black Dyke S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Inner Fire S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

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Type:	Trad, Aid, 900 ft (273 m), 8 pitches, Grade IV
FA:	FFA by Peter Croft, Hamish Fraser and Greg Foweraker
Page Views:	24,888 total · 130/month
Shared By:	Evan Stevens on Aug 6, 2009 · Updates
Admins:	Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: SIGNIFICANT ROCK FALL CLOSURES - UPDATED Feb 29th 2024 Details

For the most up-to-date information about closures in the Stawamus Chief Park, please refer to the following link: bcparks.ca/stawamus-chief-p…

The closures posted on this Mountain Project page are the latest according to the date mentioned above.

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TRAIL TO THE PROW AND ECHELON WALL VIA THE SHERIFF'S BADGE CLOSURE

Due to a rockfall event on April 17, 2023, the approach/access trail to the Prow and Echelon wall via the Sheriff’s Badge have been impacted. Please stay out of this area until the full extent of this event has been determined.

Posted April 17, 2023

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Due to multiple significant rockfalls in the North Wall, Slhanay, Grand Wall, and Western Dihedrals climbing areas of Stawamus Chief, a large number of climbing routes and bouldering areas are currently closed until further notice. Efforts are underway to assess and remove hazards in the hopes of opening some of these areas soon.

NORTH WALL CLOSURE

The following routes in this area remain closed until further notice due to a large rock fall event. All routes between Lunar Tide and Polaris on the upper Zodiac Wall, as well as all routes between Parallel Universe and Polaris on the Lower Zodiac Wall. The Climb known as Angel’s Crest is open, please be cautions on the approach and avoid the debris field to the left.

Climbing Route Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…

GRAND WALL BOULDERS CLOSURE

Due to hazards created by significant rockfall events the following bouldering areas(and associated trails) remain closed until further notice. Lipsmack: Black Sabbath & Halfway Around the world, Octogon: Kemoslabby and Viper: Old and Serious, Beachcomber & Towlie.

Boudlering Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…

WESTERN DIHEDRALS CLOSURE

Due to hazards created by significant rockfall events the following climbing routes between Teenage wasteland and Deadend Dihedral remain closed until further notice. Including: The Black Dyke, The Gauntlet, The Façade, Sticky Fingers, Sunset Strip, Millenium Falcon, Rutabaga, Turnip Arrowroot, and Europa.

Climbing Route Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…

Updated June 30, 2023

Access Issue: Camping Details

The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!

VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING

Within District Boundaries

The  District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.

Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.

The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.

· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)

· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff

· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”

Outside of District Boundaries

If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;

· Stays are limited to 14 days.

· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.

· Strictly observe any current fire bans.

DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS

Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.

Recommended affordable camping:

- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required

Description

Could this be the best 'burly' route in Squamish? Steep, physical crack climbing from the word go, with no warm up. Amazing and exposed positions, great protection (on the cruxes), what more could you ask for?

p1. The rudest warm up I know of. 12a for about 65'. clip the ancient fixed purple TCU and punch it through some steep easy moves to a ledge. Move into the left facing corner and deal with the usual wetness. Even in the driest, most drought stricken summers, I have NEVER seen this pitch dry. Pull a wet lock or two and make your way to the base of the evil overhanging slot. Grovel your way to the chains.

p2. 12-, 70'. Big fingers in the corner leads to an undercling out left. Going straight up is the Shadow, maybe the best pitch in Squamish? (12d+). Get creative and grovel to the chains.

p3. 11+ 40'. If you hit everything right I guess its only 11+, BUT on the OS, expect it to feel harder. Fingers in a wide chimney/slot over a roof to a great ledge.

p4. 5.11-, 100'. Great fingers in a corner, either go left on some under clings or straight up to a roof and underclings, a few fixed pins. Both ways are 11-, and I don't think either one is better or easier, having done both.

p5. 10+ 100'. From the comfy tree belay pull past a wide slot to some amazing steep fingers.

p6. real 5.11 (maybe R?) 100'. Get your stem on and bust out your RPs and small nuts. Finesse your way up to some horizontal breaks then go straight left on the finger tip traverse with no gear. Don't fall, then get some gear in and climb the amazingly thin and hollow flake - I am 190lbs and it has held me a half a dozen times so pull away! Clip a bolt and do a weird mystery slab move and traverse back right to the corner, and climb it to the comfy belay ledge. Going straight up is the Shadow variation, 12-, RPs.

p7. 10+ 70'. All fixed pins and bolts, traverses right a bunch, short crux.

p8. 11+ 80'. THE sting in the tail. Hard and spicey. Pull a hard slab/mantel move off the belay, go to the head wall and traverse left to the new free bolt. Clip it and balance your way up the wall to grab the ledge. Hand traverse till you get to the fixed knifeblade tips traverse and punch it. Pull on to an easy ledge and don't slip on the pine needles. Watch for heinous rope drag and belay in the trees.

You can continue straight up from here on the Roman Chimneys or walk off belly good ledge.

Location

Continue past the base of the Grand Wall as for Seasoned in the Sun. Keep going for about 2 minutes until you see the bushy ramp that cuts back right and up via a few fixed lines to the obvious STEEP and clean U-wall. A fixed line is in place for the exposed traverse to the start. A belay seat is a good idea for P1 and P2 (top of) belays.

Protection

2 sets of gear from micro to Green camalot. maybe one or two extra finger pieces. One each Red, gold, blue and big gray camalot. RPS and nuts, slings and draws. All anchors are bolted, and retreat would be easy from any pitch with 2 ropes through the top of pitch 6.