Type: Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches
FA: Ron Burgner and Don McPherson, 1968
Page Views: 6,413 total · 33/month
Shared By: Justin Slagle on Aug 6, 2009
Admins: Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan

You & This Route


50 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Description Suggest change

The route starts on the north side of Concord Tower about 50 feet down the gully from the notch at two semi-parallel diagonal cracks.

P1 (crux): Move up the two semi-parallel right diagonal cracks. Once past the diagonals, continue up a flake past a dead tree and again move up and right to another tree to belay from. [EDIT - I haven't climbed this for a decade, but according to the comments, this tree is dead (gone?) and you will need to bring gear for the belay]

P2: From the belay, move up and to climber's left under an overhang and continue traversing left. Bring a few extender slings or rope drag will be an issue. The traverse will lead you around a corner and slings will be about 20 feet from the corner at the entrance of the cave to belay from.

Move through the cave (~20 feet) and belay from the other side.

P3: Looking up the face there's a 5.4 crack that leads to some face climbing to the top where there is a belay spot at a tree. To get into the crack you have two options, one is an exposed knobby slab to the left you can travel up to the crack or you can make the lie back move to get into the crack right off the bat. The rest of the pitch is easy face climbing.

Lastly, scramble up about 40 feet to the top to summit. It's very exposed so you might want to rope up. The rappel is on the west side of the summit.

The books i've read say it's a two rope rappel. When i did the two rope rappel, i had some significant trouble pulling the ropes and it LOOKED LIKE someone had set up another rappel halfway down so you only have to use one rope. After the two rope rappel, you'll be on a ledge, move to climber's right and there is one last rappel that takes you down along the first pitch of the north face and to the notch.

Protection Suggest change

Pro to 4 inches

Photos

6,000 characters
loading