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How Low Can You Go?

5.7, Sport, TR,  Avg: 1.9 from 209 votes
FA: Alan Watts, JoAnn Miller-Watts 1991
Oregon > Central Oregon > Smith Rock > (j) Rope de Dope Block
Warning Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures DetailsDrop down

Description

Thin start, lots of classic Smith nubbins. Crux around 3rd bolt, turns very low-angle after 4th bolt.

Please rig a proper TR anchor and only use the rings to rappel.

Location

faces East, around the corner of the block from Rope-de-dope Crack. Also just left of Shamu (5.9)

Protection

5 bolts to 2-bolt anchor w/ rings

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

getting ready to rap how low can you go with a rope on north slab crack on the left and the anchors for shamu and immortal beloved on my right
[Hide Photo] getting ready to rap how low can you go with a rope on north slab crack on the left and the anchors for shamu and immortal beloved on my right
Just follow the bolts - Pretty Straight Forward Climb
[Hide Photo] Just follow the bolts - Pretty Straight Forward Climb
kelsey top roping with an outward bound course spring 2013
[Hide Photo] kelsey top roping with an outward bound course spring 2013

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jonathan Ebbing
Vancouver, WA
  5.7
[Hide Comment] Now rated 5.7 in the 2010 edition of Watts' Smith Rock book. Jun 13, 2010
Aaron Moskowitz
Philadelphia
 
[Hide Comment] The rings are getting thin, people are likely top roping directly through the rings. While they are still (probably) ok for rappelling they wont be for much longer. Apr 21, 2014
Jason Weinstein
Beaverton, Oregon
  5.7
[Hide Comment] Start was committing then cruiser after bolt #2. Jun 19, 2014
[Hide Comment] As of 10/2/16, the chain links are about as low as they can go before exploding. Those poor things have been top roped through more times than anything I've ever seen. Oct 3, 2016
M P
Somewhere in the desert
 
[Hide Comment] Another great warm-up route. Jul 12, 2017
C Dub
Bend, OR
 
[Hide Comment] Easy Jun 10, 2018
John Brown
vancouver
 
[Hide Comment] start is taxing then gets easy. Sep 8, 2018
Scottie Barnes
Portland, OR
 
[Hide Comment] Love this route, first lead climb, highly recommend it. Mar 5, 2020
[Hide Comment] Great beginner lead climb. Starts at 5.7 but mellows out as you go. The sketchy chain links that everyone is referencing have been replaced by mussy hooks. Mar 15, 2021
Kevin Patterson
Lower Hutt, NZ
  5.7
[Hide Comment] An evenly balanced route with good access for TR too. Sep 3, 2021