5.9 PG13,
Trad, 2 pitches,
Avg: 3.5 from 90
votes
FA: Ivan Rezucha, Paul Potters
New York
> Gunks
> Trapps
> h. The Arrow Wall - CCK
Traverse of the Clods is among the most interesting and unusual routes in the Gunks. Its thoughtful, balancy, exposed, not too strenuous, not R-ratedyet seldom climbed.
TOTC begins on the GT ledge, on a 15 terrace to the left of where the first pitch of
Andrew meets the GT ledge. The final pitch of
Hans' Puss starts from this same terrace.
The pitch begins a few feet right of a large right-facing corner and goes mostly up, with some trending to the right, for about 35 to a small overhang with an old pin above and to the left of it. This section is 5.7 or so and is slightly run-out.
Next, head right past an overhang, then continue to move right and slightly upward for a few feet until you can traverse straight to the right for about 35. A hanging belay can be built at the end of that traverse, at the intersection of a flake and a vertical crack/corner. If you find yourself under a roof with a sling anchor, youve gone too far.
The second pitch goes straight up to a good horizontal a few feet above. If you continue up from there, you will be doing the final, short 5.6 pitch of Twilight Zone.
To continue on TOTC, head directly right with your hands on the horizontal. Your feet will be on a good ledge that will narrow as you continue moving right. When the ledge disappears, you are at the crux.
After that difficulty is resolved, the route finishes around the corner, up a crack through a final overhang with a two-inch gap in it, which is visible from the carriage road.
On the GT Ledge, on a 15' high terrace to the left of Andrew.
Standard rack, with one extra small cam.
Germantown, MD
Brooklyn, NY
Fort Collins, CO
Study this
IMHO the optional belay is primarily for moral support. I had no trouble skipping it. You may also prefer not to have your second watch as you vacillate and tremble.
3 of the 4 climbers I watched traversed too low at the end of P2 and got stuck. The move to get up onto the traverse ledge is pretty tricky and most sane people will try to avoid it, but that's the way you need to go.
Very small cams (00 & 000 C3s) or BallNutz are all that will fit at the end of the final traverse. They may not hold much but you'll feel safer. Aug 23, 2015
Boulder
The gear anchor at the top takes hand-sized cams - and don't worry, you won't be needing those for the route itself :) Nov 12, 2018
New York, NY