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Routes in 2. First Buttress
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Haulage, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Leather Nun, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Magnatude S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Oh, It's You Bob S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Sanctified S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Sticky Situation S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Tantrum, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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World's Hardest Five Twelve, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Sport, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Doug Reed, 1991 |
| Page Views: | 2,408 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Jeremy Steck on Jul 5, 2009 |
| Admins: | Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS
Details
All of the crags within the New River Gorge proper are on national parklands, and drone use is prohibited here. There has been some discussion about places to launch drones that are not on park property, and then flying them over the gorge. This is super poor form; don't do it. Park regulations prohibit all drone use over the boundaries without a permit.
Description
Start out by climbing straight up to clip the first bolt. Head up and left, then back right to the 2nd bolt. From here difficulty backs down a bit for the next few bolts. Lots of high steps and reaches to positive holds. Make good use of any rests, you'll need it for the top. After clipping the last bolt, the crux begins...Small crimps and small feet can be used to make a big move to a nice mail slot hold. Once you stick the hold, aim for the left facing corner, making a reach for a nice jug with poor feet. From here, there's a few easy moves to the shuts. The slabby section below the shuts can be a bit dirty. Very nice climb! A must do for the area!
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