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Routes in The Great Black North
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[Redacted] S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Bete Noir S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Black Toe Arete S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Borg, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Bureau of Land Management (BLM) S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Burnt Toast, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Capital Outlay S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Chuana Chavaria S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Cold Feet S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Datura S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Delilah S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Don't Eat Stuff on the Sidewalk S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Don't Make Me Shave You S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Hang a Louie S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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It's All Gone S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Laugh the Past Away S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Locutus S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Magus, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Pincher S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Resistance is Futile S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Three Doubles S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Torch & Twang S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Tout Tout de Suite S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Tower of Power S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Triage S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Where Paradise Ain't So Crowded (aka "Reamer") S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport, 25 ft (8 m) |
| FA: | Darryl Roth, 1990 |
| Page Views: | 2,109 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Monomaniac on Jun 30, 2009 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: This crag may be on Private Property!
Details
The access situation here is a bit murky. According to "Shelf Road Rock", the crag is likely located on state land that is leased to a local rancher. Climbers should treat this area as though it were private property. Keep a low profile, leave your dogs at home, and keep the noise down.
Per Brandon Schirm: you need a fishing or hunting license to use this crag. It's part of a trust land, so therefore if you don't pay the fee potentially you could receive a fine. On 9-12-20, the cost of a fishing license was $33.42.
Per Brandon Schirm: you need a fishing or hunting license to use this crag. It's part of a trust land, so therefore if you don't pay the fee potentially you could receive a fine. On 9-12-20, the cost of a fishing license was $33.42.
Description
At the far right end of the Great Black North lies a spectacular, leaning mass of impeccable red & white-speckled limestone known as The Borg Boulder. The awesome northeast face of this block overhangs roughly 15 degrees & currently features three diminutive bolted sport routes and a bouldering traverse.
Locutus bolts directly up the left half of the face. The climbing is extremely powerful, demanding full-length cranks between deep, incut two finger pockets. The sequential line requires flawless routefinding, but fortunately the entire line can be easily scoped from the ground. Although short, Locutus is ultra-sustained, with no easy moves and only one 'rest'-- a strenuous shake at the fourth bolt. There is an optional mono (left hand) on this route, near the first bolt. If this route were three times as long, it would rank among the most sought after test-pieces in Colorado. As it is, it's an unforgettable, must-do route.
Locutus bolts directly up the left half of the face. The climbing is extremely powerful, demanding full-length cranks between deep, incut two finger pockets. The sequential line requires flawless routefinding, but fortunately the entire line can be easily scoped from the ground. Although short, Locutus is ultra-sustained, with no easy moves and only one 'rest'-- a strenuous shake at the fourth bolt. There is an optional mono (left hand) on this route, near the first bolt. If this route were three times as long, it would rank among the most sought after test-pieces in Colorado. As it is, it's an unforgettable, must-do route.
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