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Routes in The Great Black North
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[Redacted] S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Bete Noir S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Black Toe Arete S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Borg, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Bureau of Land Management (BLM) S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Burnt Toast, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Capital Outlay S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Chuana Chavaria S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Cold Feet S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Datura S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Delilah S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Don't Eat Stuff on the Sidewalk S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Don't Make Me Shave You S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Hang a Louie S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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It's All Gone S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Laugh the Past Away S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Locutus S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Magus, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Pincher S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Resistance is Futile S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Three Doubles S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Torch & Twang S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Tout Tout de Suite S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Tower of Power S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Triage S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Where Paradise Ain't So Crowded (aka "Reamer") S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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| Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | Dan Durland |
| Page Views: | 856 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Monomaniac on Jun 30, 2009 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: This crag may be on Private Property!
Details
The access situation here is a bit murky. According to "Shelf Road Rock", the crag is likely located on state land that is leased to a local rancher. Climbers should treat this area as though it were private property. Keep a low profile, leave your dogs at home, and keep the noise down.
Per Brandon Schirm: you need a fishing or hunting license to use this crag. It's part of a trust land, so therefore if you don't pay the fee potentially you could receive a fine. On 9-12-20, the cost of a fishing license was $33.42.
Per Brandon Schirm: you need a fishing or hunting license to use this crag. It's part of a trust land, so therefore if you don't pay the fee potentially you could receive a fine. On 9-12-20, the cost of a fishing license was $33.42.
Description
Another diamond in the rough, Datura climbs a beautiful panel of white limestone on excellent pockets & edges. This reachy line has just enough holds to make it go, and no more. The line is marred slightly by a sketchy band of stacked blogs that guard the start, making a stick clip a wise choice. Teeter your way up the choss-band to a balance mantle onto a nice ledge below the clean panel. A long reach (or desperate crux for shorties ~5'6" & under) off thin 2-finger pockets leads to a sinker jug and a stellar section of long cranks of classic Shelf pocket-jugs. Rest up at the obvious horizontal break, just below the sustained crux. Move up, and then hard right to the right arete, with the help of a sinker mono (those with smaller fingers can get two in here). Slap strenuously up the arete to a nice flat jug above a small ceiling. From here its possible to continue up the arete, or traverse back left across the bolt line, to reach the anchor.
Location
Climbs the clean white panel 15' left of "The Burnt Toast". Also the first bolted line right of the Shelf Refrigerator.
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