Type: | Trad, Aid, 900 ft (273 m), 8 pitches, Grade IV |
FA: | Jeff Lowe late 60s. FRA and variation: James Garrett and Tristan Higbee, 27 June 2009 |
Page Views: | 4,861 total · 26/month |
Shared By: | James Garrett on Jun 28, 2009 |
Admins: | Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
Description
I had long looked at this line, yet though seemingly striking and obvious, history was lacking. A two bolt belay appears under the dihedral pitch on page 399 of the Ruckman Guide. In conversations with Les Ellison after finding ancient bolts in certain sections on the wall, we learned of an unreported 60's ascent by Jeff Lowe. His route, typically, was long, bold, and ahead of its time.
Pitch #1: From the lowest point on Middle Bell, climb weaknesses past some bulges through a swath through bushes to a two-bolt belay. 5.5, 25m.
Pitch #2: Continue straight up using the bush trimmings as markers to another two-bolt belay ledge. 5.6, 30m.
Pitch #3: Follow a groove/crack to a nice ledge and two-bolt belay immediately under the first prominent roof. 5.5, 33m.
Pitch #4: Climb a hand crack, up a steep shallow corner passing an old two-bolt hanging belay to a 3-bolt belay ledge. 5.10, A0, 40m.
Pitch #5: Climb out left, surmount a flake and gain more ground up the wild and steep groove/flake system. The Lowe route continues right up these grooves. WW moves more directly up slightly trending left at this point past bolts to the "railroad tracks", a pair of thin cracks that lead to the base of the Great Dihedral. 5.9, A1. 58m.
Pitch #6: Layback up the wide right facing corner to hands, eventually moving left to a two-bolt belay ledge. The only crack of its kind in the Wasatch? 5.9+, 56m.
Pitch #7: Climb directly above the belay to the left arete of the tower pinnacle. Follow more than 13 bolts and fixed protection up the slab to a 3-bolt belay. This pitch may likely be the only entirely new and independent pitch from the Lowe route. 5.10, A0. 55m.
Pitch #8: Scamper the final moves up the decomposed rock past a drilled piton to the tower's tiny top. A drilled piton was added to Lowe's single anchor found here. 5.5, 2m.
Rappel the route.
Location
Protection
QDs and slings. Camalots from C3 to #5. An RB or hook. A good number and variety of thin pitons, though this may go clean in subsequent ascents. This might be a candidate for a free ascent, but I suspect it might be 5.13 or so steep slab climbing. If a strong free climber would like to add a few bolts to avoid the nailing of the "railroad tracks" and make this feasible, great idea!....go for it. If done as an aid climb, please do not add bolts. All belays are bolted. All bolts used are at least 3/8" x 3". Many 1/2". Two 60m ropes are recommended. Helmets....should be obvious but just saying.
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