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A Wonderful Life

5.12 PG13, Trad, 115 ft (35 m),  Avg: 3.7 from 29 votes
FA: Dan Foster, JJ Schlick 2003
Arizona > Northern Arizona > Oak Creek Canyon > Waterfall > 3. The Right Wall

Description

A Wonderful Life was a saving grace and needed distraction from reality for Dan when we were working on the pitch. He got so excited about the line that he actually wanted to add bolts to link the bottom and top, though I am pretty sure I did the bolting so he could instantly fire of the FA. At the end of the day, all was wonderful and life seemed right and just. A striking pitch with classic Waterfall climbing.

Start on a very pronounced finger crack 2 systems left of Resurrection. Work your way up to a shallow, overhanging, left facing dihedral passing three bolts. Once you reach the upper dihedral be ready to move and place thin gear on the run.

Location

On the far right side of the Right Wall. Left of Resurrection. Obvious finger crack which is at the moment shrouded by branches.

Protection

Plenty of small/medium TCUs, small/medium wires, and sliders. Four bolts in the middle.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Mike Barroso working through the moves
[Hide Photo] Mike Barroso working through the moves
The route from the base.
[Hide Photo] The route from the base.
Mike Barroso nearing the top of "A Wonderful Life"
[Hide Photo] Mike Barroso nearing the top of "A Wonderful Life"
Mike Barroso in the blue shirt on "A Wonderful Life"
[Hide Photo] Mike Barroso in the blue shirt on "A Wonderful Life"

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

RyanJames
  5.12b/c PG13
[Hide Comment] This route would be perfect without the series of sharp, detached blocks towards the top. Has anyone tried removing the bottom one? Oct 10, 2013
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.12 PG13
[Hide Comment] I'm sure Dan and I looked them over thoroughly, but this was also before we started dropping blocks like these. I might have a chance to take a closer look sometime soon, but if you are feeling industrious Ryan go for it. Oct 10, 2013
NAZ CC
Flagstaff, AZ
[Hide Comment] The NAZCC (Northern Arizona Climbers Coalition) added Climb Tech mussy hooks to the anchors. In collaboration with the ASCA (American Safe Climbing Association) and the Access Fund, the NAZCC will continue further anchor improvements and re-bolting efforts throughout the region. If you'd like to support the cause, you can donate at nazcc.org. Mar 4, 2021
Zach Harrison
Flagstaff
[Hide Comment] It’s a wonderful route! The block stack came off today. This route has great stone bottom to top. Very fun and varied. The crux slider nest is from a nice rest so get on it! Jan 29, 2022
Mantas Motekaitis
Flagstaff, AZ
[Hide Comment] Short film of Amity Warme sending this route! youtube.com/watch?v=faykNcK… Mar 22, 2024