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Routes in East and Northeast Buttress Approach
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Adrenaline Surfer S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Assembly Line T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Back to Montana T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Belle Fourche Buttress T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Broken Tree T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Buckspeck S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Burning Daylight T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Casper College T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Dump Watt T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Everlasting T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Fruity Pebbles T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Gooseberry Jam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hourglass, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Hubba Bubba T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Maid in the Shaid T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Missed Opportunity T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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New Wave T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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NORTH FACE RAPPEL ROUTE TR 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Patent Pending T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Path Through Enlightenment T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A2-3 |
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Pinball Wizard T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A4- |
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Sassenach's Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Soaring T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Spectator Sport T A2- |
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Stepping Out of Flatland T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a |
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Surfer Girl T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Team Ropin S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Witchie T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, Aid, 140 ft (42 m) |
| FA: | Trevor Bowman and Kyle Rott 6/22/09 |
| Page Views: | 1,535 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Trevor Bowman on Jun 23, 2009 |
| Admins: | Peter Gram, Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure
Details
VOLUNTARY JUNE CLIMBING CLOSURE
The National Park Service asks that climbers choose not to climb the Tower during the month of June. The June voluntary climbing closure was selected as part of the Devils Tower Climbing Management Plan by a working group that included two climber organizations, two American Indian organizations, and other agency and local government representatives.
Climbers are strongly encouraged to consider enjoying the many other climbing options available in northeast Wyoming and the Black Hills area of South Dakota, during the month of June.
Details: nps.gov/deto/planyourvisit/…
Climbing MGMT Plan nps.gov/deto/planyourvisit/…
Rock climbing routes on the East and Northeast Faces of Devils Tower summit will be temporarily closed to protect nesting Peregrine and Prairie Falcons.
The National Park Service asks that climbers choose not to climb the Tower during the month of June. The June voluntary climbing closure was selected as part of the Devils Tower Climbing Management Plan by a working group that included two climber organizations, two American Indian organizations, and other agency and local government representatives.
Climbers are strongly encouraged to consider enjoying the many other climbing options available in northeast Wyoming and the Black Hills area of South Dakota, during the month of June.
Details: nps.gov/deto/planyourvisit/…
Climbing MGMT Plan nps.gov/deto/planyourvisit/…
Rock climbing routes on the East and Northeast Faces of Devils Tower summit will be temporarily closed to protect nesting Peregrine and Prairie Falcons.
Description
A fun and casual line up the fracture seam on the face between Buckspeck and Calculus Affair.
Start at the same spot as Buckspeck and easily free climb right past some vegetation into the dihedral just right of its arete. Switch into aid mode and tack up the dihedral on bomber placements for about 25'. Move left out onto the steeper face on a couple thin placements and into the seam proper. This seam goes through many sizes and offers a great stretch of clean aid mixed with a couple pin placements until a pod is reached which takes bomber cams (#1 and #.75 BD). Above the pod it's great birdbeakin' for a ways until more good clean placements take you to the belay for Buckspeck.
The last part of the climb is just around the corner from the upper slabby arete on Buckspeck, and one could feasibly bail out onto that, but the aiding is great all the way to the top! An easy variety pitch with some thin spots, but these are never too far above bomber gear and always lead to better placements soon.
Start at the same spot as Buckspeck and easily free climb right past some vegetation into the dihedral just right of its arete. Switch into aid mode and tack up the dihedral on bomber placements for about 25'. Move left out onto the steeper face on a couple thin placements and into the seam proper. This seam goes through many sizes and offers a great stretch of clean aid mixed with a couple pin placements until a pod is reached which takes bomber cams (#1 and #.75 BD). Above the pod it's great birdbeakin' for a ways until more good clean placements take you to the belay for Buckspeck.
The last part of the climb is just around the corner from the upper slabby arete on Buckspeck, and one could feasibly bail out onto that, but the aiding is great all the way to the top! An easy variety pitch with some thin spots, but these are never too far above bomber gear and always lead to better placements soon.
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